An Unpopular Pattern (By Hand London Sabrina)

July 26, 2016July 26, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 6 Comments

Pretend you don't see a remote — Pretend you don’t see a remote

I rarely ever research a pattern before I buy it. I know a lot of sewists do, and perhaps I should, but I don’t. So when I saw the Sabrina dress from BHL, I snapped it up without a second thought. I’d been searching for the perfect pattern to use with Gertie fabric, and this gave me beautiful 90’s nostalgia. So imagine my surprise when I finally searched and found almost no reviews…

No, the back isn't uneven, I'm just standing weird again. — No, the back isn’t uneven, I’m just standing weird again.

What’s with the hate, sewists? The pattern is fairly straightforward, alterations are easy. In this rayon, it’s light and breezy, perfect for summer. Putting it on, I immediately wanted Dr. Pepper lip smacker lip balm, glittery eyeshadow, and platform shoes. I wanted to sit in an inflatable chair and watch Friends. How could any of that be so bad? Is it the buttons? I’ll admit, when I saw the pattern call for 30 buttons, it seemed a bit daunting. In reality, though, I could only fit 14 on the dress, and my buttons were pretty small. What gives, folks?

To be fair, I did make some slight alterations. Once the dress body was assembled, the dress gaped too much under the arms. To remedy, I just made a dart at the top of the side seam, if that makes sense. I added pockets, albeit too low pockets. It’s a fairly common mistake for me, but sometimes I place my pockets at the most comfortable place. I have fairly long arms, so this is rarely flattering, they should really be several inches higher. I also omitted the facings, because I hate facings and I try to take them out whenever possible. I’m not a big fan of creating thin straps, either, so those had to go as well. I lieu of the facings and straps, I have thin bias tape. I bound the neckline seams with bias, and extended it up to create straps. Quick, easy, and it didn’t cause me to lose my temper. Win win.

The placket was the only thing that really threw me for me a loop here. I’ve never sewn a placket without using interfacing, and this dress calls for none. I wasn’t really sure how well my machine would handle buttonholes on uninterfaced flimsy fabric, but it went flawlessly. I think I will probably nip the waist in a bit more, but overall, it’s a great, comfortable dress. It’s been oppressively hot and humid in Ohio lately, but I stayed as cool as possible all day in this. Really, you guys, what gives??

The Maxi Dress Sew-Along Is Back! #Maxisewalong2016

July 19, 2016August 16, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 6 Comments

I know it might be a little late in the summer, but anytime is a great time for a maxi dress! Who doesn’t love a good, comfortable maxi dress? Last year we had a lot of fun sewing up our dresses and chatting in the a Maxi Sew-Along Group. Make sure to join the group if you plan on participating in the sew along. Once again I’ve teamed up with Amy from That’s Sew Amy and we’ve got a sponsor. The sew along starts now and ends August 17, 2016 EST. I’ll post the showcase on August 19, 2016. And there is a BONUS! This year a random participant will receive a FREE pattern of your choice from 5 Out Of 4 Patterns! You can also use coupon code maxisewalong2016 at checkout on their website to receive 20% off your pattern order, good through Tuesday, July 27 (EST). They currently have one maxi dress pattern: Journey Tank and Dress, but they have a few others that are screaming to be hacked into a maxi. Check out all the details below. (Note: you do not have to use one of their patterns to win the free pattern or participate in the sew along)

What is a sew-along? Where a group of people get together and sew the same pattern or garment style together. In this case it would be a garment style: maxi dress.

What is considered a maxi dress? A dress that falls to the ankles.

Who can participate? Everyone and everyone! No need for a blog, you just have to be able to send in a picture to be posted to the showcase and entered to win the free pattern.

Will there be a winner? There isn’t a winner, just a group of sewists having fun. After everyone has submitted their dress picture(s) (either by e-mail or post in the Facebook group), I will draw a random name for the free pattern.

Time frame: Start sewing now and be sure to send in your picture by August 17, 2016 (EST) by either e-mail or post in the Facebook group.

Why? Sew-alongs help motivate and push you to try new things. Also, you get to make new friends and have fun at the same time! Win/win!

Rules: Dress can be for you or someone else, any age. It has to be made within the time frame above. You can use any pattern you wish or draft your own. Adding embellishments to a current maxi dress will not count. The dress can be as formal or casual as you want. You have to submit pictures of your finished dress. You don’t have to be wearing the dress in the photos – but it makes it more fun!

Social Media: Use hashtag #maxisewalong2016 on social media to see what everyone else is up to. Post inspiration and progress photos for everyone to see. You can use the below photo on any social media.

If you want a smaller icon to post on your blog:

Final:
-Make sure to e-mail or post in the Facebook group on or before August 17, 2016 (EST) with your finished garment photos.
-Be sure to let me know what name/website to credit your photos with.

The Doctor Who Dress (Tilly & the Buttons Mashup)

July 18, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 2 Comments

I’ve had both the Tilly and the Buttons book and this Doctor Who fabric laying around for quite some time. Since winter, possibly. The fabric is basic quilting cotton (trust me, I wish it wasn’t), so I’d been toying with several patterns, trying to decide how to use it. I hate quilting cotton, but I love Doctor Who, so whatever. I wanted something that would showcase the print, but at the same time play nicely with the 0% give of the fabric. Once I started flipping through Tilly’s book, I discovered the Lilou dress, complete with a bow tie belt. Perfect for Doctor Who, right?!?

So I accidentally set my phone camera to square and also framed myself terribly.

The only problem, at least for me, was the pleated skirt. It seemed to me that the lines of text on the print wouldn’t work well with pleats. So I opted for the Delphine skirt, with it’s sleek lines and sturdy shape, it was a much better option. Now, you may have noticed, there’s no bow tie belt here! Truth is, I got super frustrated with it. Irrationally so. The plan was to just attach the bow tie to the exiting waist band. But the first bow tie was far too small for the band. The second was a fine size, but then I felt the black bow tie on the black band would be lost. I contemplated a third, this time in the print, but the dogs had carried off my scrap fabric. So…no bow tie. Sorry, folks!

Based on my measurements and Tilly’s size guide, I cut a 4. I love a fitted dress, but this is a bit too snug. I used stretch sateen for the waist band, because that’s just what I had, and I think that may have contributed to some of the bunching you’re seeing. I think next time I’ll cut a 6 and grade the waist. As always, I added pockets. I also decided to fully line the bodice instead of doing facings, because I fucking hate facings. After I serged the hem, I decided I liked the look of that, just as is with no additional bulk, so I just left it. I know that’s not very professional and isn’t something I’m supposed to do, but I’m not a professional. I do what I want!

I dunno why I didn't take any pictures from the other side? Or of the back... — I dunno why I didn’t take any pictures from the other side? Or of the back…

This dress definitely has a different vibe than most of the things I’ve sewn. Kind of 60’s, you know? I really need to make the Delphine skirt on it’s own, it’s so quick and easy, it would be great to have a few fun work skirts! The fabric is also really fun, I’m thinking of wearing this to Time Traveler’s weekend this year. Oh! And you may be noticing a bluish tinge to my hair. You’re eyes aren’t deceiving you, there are blue sections in there! It’s actually much more obvious in person, just wasn’t coming through in pictures. Happy sewing 🙂

The Unhemmed Dress (Colette Wren/Colette 1033)

July 11, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 8 Comments

I know I’ve been pretty vocal about it lately, but I’ll say it again, I fucking hate knits. I know I know, everyone loves them, and I get it, they’re comfy and they sew up quickly. I just can’t get on board. I tried, I made this knit dress several times. The times I made it in a woven were my favorite. I hate how knits “grow”, I hate they just flop everywhere with no structure. Ponte has structure, you say. I know, and if I must sew a knit, I prefer to use ponte. For this dress, I didn’t. For this dress, I made the worst fabric choice.

I got this lovely floral fabric from Girl Charlee during their big Christmastime sale. When Colette came out with the Wren pattern, I immediately thought of that floral fabric sitting in my stash. I love the vintage summertime feel of the fabric, and the pattern did call light to medium weight jersey with a nice drape! Perfect, right!?!? NO!

This fabric is WAY too lightweight for this dress. The skirt is just weighing the bodice down and and creating a shapeless mess. My measurements sit comfortably between the small and medium sizes, but I went ahead and cut the small. Should be a bit snug, right? NO! Not with 45% stretch. To make things just a bit more annoying, the white underside of the fabric shows through when stretched. UGH! I did try on the bodice before attaching it to the skirt, I basted the front bodice sections together where I wanted them. All seemed well!!! Added the skirt and everything went to shit. At this point, I decided not to even hem the sleeves or skirt. I was so frustrated, I couldn’t justify wasting more time here.

Is it better from the side? Nope, not at all.

At this point I should point out that the problem here wasn’t the pattern, but my terrible terrible fucking fabric choice. I should also admit, I skipped the waist elastic. Perhaps if I’d used that, this dress wouldn’t be such a tragedy? I doubt it, but it is possible. Maybe sometime in the future I’ll make it in a better fabric and my opinion of knits will change entirely, I have seen some really cute versions of this dress out there.

Catelyn is the only thing saving this picture.

I thought about not posting this dress, because it is such a fail. But…I’m human and sometimes my sewing just comes out awful. Why pretend like it doesn’t? I’ve learned things, like to stay far away from lightweight, super stretchy knits. I still wore it around the house yesterday, it’s comfortable enough to wear, as long as no one sees me. So it’s not a total waste! That said…I’m still treating myself to a woven project next. With no stretch! Happy sewing 🙂

The Six Hour Dress (Gertie surplice bodice & 3/4 circle skirt)

July 4, 2016July 5, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 12 Comments

These are cellphone on a tripod pictures, forgive them

I’m forever terrible at starting anything when I should. For instance, I knew months ago that I wanted to make this dress for the 4th of July. Weeks ago, I bought the fabric. When did I actually start the project? July 2nd, and by start I mean traced the bodice. Ugh.

The pattern is yet another one from Gertie’s latest book, this time using the surplice bodice. To save time, I used the same 3/4 circle skirt from my lemon dress. The fabric is a lovely blue cotton with embroidered anchors, I’ve been lusting over it for about a year! The bodice lining is a red sateen from my stash.

Despite the expression on my face, I love the skirt

Since I rushed myself and did my sewing at lightning speed, there are errors here. The hem needs to be redone, for sure. As for the bodice, I totally forgot to understitch, and the red keeps peeking out. I also need to adjust the bodice so it doesn’t gap open so much.

Now, full disclosure: I am not built like this. My waist is not nearly this small. In all of these, I’m wearing a steel boned waist training corset here. For a pinup-type dress, I like the dramatic curves a corset gives. I’m also wearing a petticoat, to add fullness and more drama to the skirt. Going for the whole package here, ya know?

Overall, this dress is FAR from perfect, but I’d still say it’s not too bad for a Saturday evening’s work. It’s patriotic as balls, if it wasn’t monsooning Ohio I’d be out celebrating the holiday in it! Happy 4th to my fellow American sewists, and to my international friends, I hope we’re not overwhelming you with blue and red! Happy sewing 🙂