Seam Ripping Woes (Colette Rue Tester)

Seam Ripping Woes (Colette Rue Tester)

Bitch face forever.
Bitch face forever.

I was pretty stoked to be part of the testing group for the new Colette pattern, so when they sent over Rue, I immediately started thinking of fabric ideas. I really wanted to use something that showed off the curved lines on the bodice. Originally, I planned to do version 2 (with the longer sleeves) in this mammoth flannel from Robert Kaufman, but the thought of that plaid matching made my heart hurt. After browsing my fabric stash on Cora, I settled on this Cotton and Steel print.

Weird claw hand courtesy of my camera remote.
Weird claw hand courtesy of my camera remote.

At first glance, I found the instructions for Rue to be a bit daunting, there are 46 (PDF) pages! Not to worry, though, the instructions contain detailed layouts and directions for both versions. WHEW! Rue is fully lined, so do expect to invest a little extra time for construction. Most of the bodice shaping comes from the curved front seam and some small tucks on each side. The front seam curve comes up a bit too high or too low on me, I can’t decide which. I think for the pattern it should be higher, but for my taste, lower? Either way, it needs fixing.

I promise I don't sleep standing up.
I promise I don’t sleep standing up.

I opted to cut the side front pieces on the bias, because I thought it would look cool. The pattern does NOT call for this, so if you do it, keep in mind that bias cut stuff will stretch. This was especially a problem for me, because I had trouble matching up the bodice pieces on my muslin as well, even though that was straight cut. I don’t know why, but they just wouldn’t line up for me! I imagine it’s user error, as it’s ALWAYS user error. This is version 2, the one with the longer sleeves and skirt gathers. I decided to shorten the sleeves last minute and didn’t want to print the pattern all over again. So be warned, these are not the version 1 sleeves. Other than that, I made no alterations. That is, unless you’re thinking of that fucking GIANT weird pleat pucker thing near the neckline. That beauty is courtesy of seam ripper accident. Don’t rush your sewing, folks, just don’t.

I'm still pissed at my seam ripper.
I’m still pissed at my seam ripper.

All and all, Rue came together a lot more quickly than I’d expected, seam ripper destruction and all. This is exactly the kind of thing I’ve been meaning to make for office wear, cute yet still professional. Maybe I can work up the courage to suffer through plaid matching for a longer sleeved version? I’ll have to consult some vodka about it, but it just might happen! Happy sewing 🙂

Gnome Pants Dress (Seamwork Adelaide)

Gnome Pants Dress (Seamwork Adelaide)

It's weird to actually button something all the way up.
It’s weird to actually button something all the way up.

It’s been a few weeks since I started this Adelaide dress from Seamwork Magazine, so I was really excited to get back into it. After the sudden loss of my beloved sewing machine, Rose, I was forced to find a new machine. A machine I would love, and that was in my budget. Keeping in mind that budget was about half a nickel ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I settled on a Brother SE400, which I am calling Donna Noble. It’s not the Pfaff I wanted, but so far she’s been great! Hopefully embroidery will be coming soon.

Photo bomb by Danner the wiener dog, who's totally available for adoption, FYI
Photo bomb by Danner the wiener dog, who’s totally available for adoption, FYI

When I actually got a chance to work on Adelaide, she came together surprisingly quickly. The back features double pointed darts, which are my absolute favorite, and the front features simple bust darts. The neckline and arm scythe are finished with packaged bias tape, and the hem is just a rolled hem. Instead of buttons, the pattern calls for snaps, which I find MUCH more satisfying. Hammer out those frustrations, you know?

She needs a good pressing.
She needs a good pressing.

I know I just said this pattern was easy, but it does have belt loops. Fuck belt loops, man. Using a loop turner is just beyond my grasp, my clumsy man hands will just not do it. Instead, I stitched some bias tape closed, lengthwise, and used that. It saved so much time! The pattern also features a belt, which is much easier to make. Speaking of the belt, I think I cinched mine way too tight in these pictures, it looks a bit weird, right? Oh and pockets, I added pockets.

My body is not lopsided, I just stand weird always.
My body is not lopsided, I just stand weird always.

I used a lovely but hard to find Cotton + Steel fabric for this, adorably called gnome pants. It’s a cotton lawn, which is about the most perfect fabric of all time. It sews beautifully, is lightweight and breathable, yet has some body. I would make my entire wardrobe out of cotton lawn if I could. That said, I don’t think this dress is the most flattering thing I’ve ever worn. I’m an hourglass shape, but I think it gives me a pear shape. I also think the arm sycthe lays weird, not sure what alteration I’d make to fit that? In these photos, I’m wearing a black cami underneath the dress, and which could be rolling up and adding weird bulk to the bottom. We’ll see upon further wearings.

See what I mean about the pear shaping?
See what I mean about the pear shaping?

All that aside, I did wear this dress all day, and it was super comfortable. I’m possibly just being too picky and weird about it. Anyway, it’s great to be back in front of a machine!! Happy sewing 🙂

The Dog Dress (Colette Lily/Colette 1020)

The Dog Dress (Colette Lily/Colette 1020)

Pockets mean no awkward hand gestures.
Pockets mean no awkward hand gestures.

Before I launch into anything about the sewing, I need to talk about my love for Colette. Originally, I ordered this pattern because it was on sale, and it was called the Lily, just like my main bitch, Lily Rose. Now, as many of you don’t at all know, I am bit old school and set in my ways. I prefer books to ebooks (down with ebooks!), and paper patterns to PDF. Yeah, I know PDF patterns are better and yada yada yada, I get it. But…I love a physical copy in all it’s beautiful packaging glory. Colette has the best, prettiest paper patterns. Period. Ever. The instructions are bound like a book (instead of an unwieldy giant sheet), there’s a section for notes, and the actual pattern just slips into a little section in the back. It’s like they were designed just for me! Did you also know that Colette donates part of their proceeds to animal rescue? BECAUSE THEY TOTALLY DO! If you’re not following me on Instagram, you may not realize I foster doggies. Anyone who helps dogs is automatically a winner in my book. Also, Colette posted something of their Instagram about leadership as an introvert. I THINK MY SOUL MATE IS A PATTERN COMPANY!

Miss Lily Rose.
Miss Lily Rose.

Okay, love fest over. This is the Lily dress, which I had intended to finish last month, as it was the pattern of the month. But…best intentions of mice and men…

I know, I'm the best at posing.
I know, I’m the best at posing.

I really liked this pattern (obviously), the instructions were very easy to follow, and the construction was straight forward. I was a little unsure of myself when it came to sewing the bodice facing around the invisible zip. But I just read the instructions through a few times, it came together just fine. There’s also a tutorial online of how to install an invisible zip, if you’ve not done it before 😉 I made this in polyester satin, with the cherry pieces actually being bits of a polyester scarf. I’ve really been trying to sew through my stash, so I’ve been just kind of making materials work with any given project. The recommended materials are a bit sturdier than what I used, so I added extra interfacing in the straps, pockets, and bodice flap thing, just to make sure it wasn’t too floppy. I cut a straight 14, but after fitting, I took the bodice in 1 & 1/4 inches, because I like a snug bodice fit. I probably could have done the same for the skirt, but I didn’t mind the extra room there. The hem is finished with self made cherry bias binding. Although I like the way the dress is to be hemmed according to the pattern, I don’t think a machine stitched hem looks great in satin. I fucking hate hand stitching, so bias binding it is. The extra cherry accent seems to work, so it’s a win!

Half my pictures are of me trying to show the hem.
Half my pictures are of me trying to show the hem.
And again!
And again!

I really dig the vintage feel of this dress. I had a lot of fun sewing it, and I truly think I’ll get a lot of wear out of it. Have you sewn the Lily? Did you love it too?

Happy sewing!  :)
Happy sewing! 🙂