The Last Wrap Dress (Vogue 8181)

The Last Wrap Dress (Vogue 8181)

The last wrap dress of the season, anyway. It’s starting to feel like fall here, which means it’s time to put away the sundresses and start working on jeans and coats. Blah real sewing! Before that happens, though, I wanted to get one last wrap dress in. I have really been living in these this year, the year of comfort. All of them have been easy, almost like secret pajamas but this one takes the cake…

Because it’s DBP. By DBP I of course mean double brushed poly, this one from LA Finch Fabrics. Hands done the softest fabric I have ever worn. I’ve heard people talk about how nice it is, but I didn’t really believe it until I used it. Take my word for it, it’s awesome. However, it is a fabric that “grows”. It also has a good bit of stretch, so factor that in. The pattern I used called for wovens or knits, so I definitely ended making some adjustments along the way.

Speaking of the pattern, I used Very Easy Very Vogue 8181, circa 1971. It’s a seriously fantastic pattern, I definitely intend to make more next summer. Vintage patterns can be hard to find, but I usually get mine (including this one) on Etsy. For me, it’s the easiest place. I’m far from an expert on the subject, so go with whatever you’re comfortable with, just try vintage patterns. I’m telling you, they’re fantastic.

Speaking of the pattern, I did make a few alterations. For starters, I moved the waistband opening, where the tie pulls through. I didn’t particularly care for the amount of coverage I was getting, so I moved to opening toward the front a bit. I also shortened the tie straps, with the stretch of the fabric they were just sooooooo long. If I was a smarter lady, I would have interfaced the bodice pieces as well. I don’t care for the stretch there, I wouldn’t mind a bit of support. I also totally, lazily, didn’t hem the skirt at all. It’s knit! Fuck it.

Other than these things, it’s pretty much just the pattern as is. The world’s most comfortable wrap dress. How’s your summer sewing going? Are you still at it or are you transitioning into fall wear? I’ve really enjoyed the ease and comfort of summer, but I am looking forward to challenge of more structured garments. Speaking of that: wool coating. Where do you guys buy it? Help a girl out!

The 32nd Birthday Dress (Simplicity 7484)

The 32nd Birthday Dress (Simplicity 7484)

I’ve been a terrible blogger lately, I know! I promised you guys a maxi sewalong wrap up post, and I SWEAR I’ll write that this week. Swear it. I’ve been struggling with how to display all the fabulous makes vs. my limited technical skills. It’s a problem. Additionally, work has been nuts. Excuses I know, but I don’t want anyone to think I forgot about them! Until I can get that post up, I wanted to share at least something. This dress is equally as old, my birthday was the 27th, but I wanted to post it nevertheless. The pattern may look familiar and it’s yet another lemon dress, but I think it’s worth talking about anyway. Here we go…

The pattern is vintage, Simplicity 7484, which you may recognize as last year’s maxi pattern. I wear the shit out of that dress, so I knew I wanted to make another this year. I’m all about rayon lately, so for the the fabric, I went with this amazing navy lemon fabric from Etsy. It comes in both white and navy, and it is just a dream. It has a very lovely “wobble” and is just the right weight for summer.

Even though I love the fabric weight, I knew I would need to line the bodice cups. I prefer not to announce the temperature, if you know what I mean. I also had a bit of a problem with the bodice front gaping on my previous version, so I added a little clear elastic along the edge this time. This was all brilliant in theory, but for the life of me, I couldn’t get the fucking notches on the bodice to match up on the waistband. In end, I said fuck it, gathered it a bit, and moved on. Being honest, I don’t really love the gathered look. I might eventually unpick the seam and redo it. But…I think we all know I’m pretty lazy, so don’t count on it! Other than these changes, it’s basically the same as my previous version, I won’t bore you with repetitive pattern details.

I also didn’t properly hem this. Its’ on my list of things to do, I swear. Of course I finished this dress last minute, quite literally. I finished it actual minutes before I had to run out the door to meet friends for dinner. It was hectic. I kinda wish I had made the maxi version, but I’m not smart and just didn’t order enough fabric. I’m a hot mess, that’s what I’m trying to say in this post.

Despite the shenanigans, I have worn this dress, unhemmed 😨, since then. Don’t even care. It’s so easy to wear and fits in with my summer of no bras initiative. No zippers or buttons to fuss with, just slip on, tie a knot, and go about your day. Comfort is king around here lately, which is a big change from the corsets and boning of years past. I suppose the older you get, the less fucks you give? Or is that just me? I hope your summer sewing is going well, stay tuned for a maxi wrap up (I promise) and one more halter dress. Happy sewing 🙂

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The Watergun Fight Dress (By Hand London Orsola Tester)

The Watergun Fight Dress (By Hand London Orsola Tester)

I don’t know what to do with my hands. Again.

I’m deeming this the summer of the wrap dress. I love how comfortable they are to wear, and how easy they are to make. They’re super flattering, and can expand a bit if I go too hard with the snacks, which I absolutely will do. They can be fabric hogs, but that’s a sacrifice I’m willing to make. Orsola isn’t such a fabric hog, she comes in around 4 1/2 yards I think, including lining. Not too shabby!

Plus, it’s great for jumping.

I was super stoked when I got the email about this pattern! The back is just the perfect little bit of sexy. Originally, I’d planned to make this with a sari I’d ordered of Ebay. HOWEVER, that thing was straight up hot garbage. The fabric felt like that Halloween costume fabric, if you know what I mean, and upon washing, the fabric dye bled everywhere. Straight to the garbage with that! Bless Amazon and this lovely Cotton + Steel fabric! In two days, I had a gorgeous rayon, though I kinda wish I’d gone for the dark blue. The only trouble was that I’d stupidly ordered three yards. There was NO fabric for the lining! Last minute shopper that I am, I had zero time to make it to the only store in my city to carry this fabric. Soooo I ended up at Joann, and boy was that a mistake. Somehow, they had no solid black rayon challis, weird, right? I ended up with a polyester crepe, much to my disappointment. Oh well, moving on…

That back, though.

Orsola sews up fairly easily, though you should be prepared for quite a few darts! I’ve never minded darts, but if you do, prepare yourself, because it has about 18. Orsola also features a fully lined bodice, and a skirt facing. I’ve never sewn a skirt facing before, and I was skeptical. I loathe facings, they’re floppy and annoying and should be avoided at all costs. That said, I actually like this one. It adds a bit of weight to the hem, and it seems to help it lay prettily. I opted for the tulip skirt version, which is really not much of a change for the straight skirt. I also failed to understitch the bodice lining, which was DUMB. DUMB DUMB DUMB. Bad self.

Side view, sans face.

I had some picture taking woes with this one, but luckily my friend Michelle and her lovely wife stepped up and shot them for me, some of the photos feature their absolutely adorable daughter, Tiger Lily, so don’t be confused by the child. She was so fun! Afterward, we had a bit of a watergun fight, my eyeliner was a bit worse for the wear lol! Photo dump below, I hope you enjoy Orsola, I’m looking forward to making many more. Happy sewing 🙂

Holidaze (Colette Crepe/Colette 1013)

Holidaze (Colette Crepe/Colette 1013)

Stop doing that with your chin, self.

So here’s the thing…I really need to cut my bangs. I thought I would grow them out, but I won’t. Please look past the bangs. Also, I was very fidgety for these photos, so excuse the blur, okay? I’m tryin’ here, photos are not my favorite.

I know I know, kinda blurry

This is the Colette Crepe, and my Holidaze post for the Sew Long Summer Sew Along. I know the fabric is floral, but to me it looks like fireworks. Labor Day holiday + firework print=Holidaze, yes? This fabric was purchased at Joann’s 283238473 years ago, from the clearance section. It’s cotton, but lighter and more sheer than cotton lawn. Mystery fabric.

I can't deal with my own face right now.
I can’t deal with my own face right now.

While the pattern calls for facings, I opted to fully line it instead. I fucking hate facings. Facings are the worst. Plus, this fabric is practically translucent, so a full lining was really the only option. While this definitely makes for a better dress, it does take a lot of fabric. I’m guessing between 7-8 yards, maybe. I ran out. The filler pieces on the lining are black quilting cotton.

I’ve got a very Amelia Pond-esque crack in my wall.

To line it, I just cut double the amount of each piece, except the tie straps, obviously. The shoulders and sides of the bodice and lining were sewn together. I stitched lining and bodice together at the back and neckline, with the straps sandwiched between the two. For the arms, i just serged and folded the seams under. I sandwiched (word of the day?) the bodice inbetween the skirt and skirt lining, to get a nice clean finish at the waist. Make sense? Probably not, that’s a terrible explanation. I hope you get the idea! Other than the lining, I followed the instructions.

For me, basically a turtleneck.
For me, basically a turtleneck.

I cut a size 8 of version two, because I love a fancy neckline. I have to say, the neckline is a little high for me, I am not exactly known for dressing conservatively. I liked the fit, and of course a wrap dress gives you some wiggle room. I will probably end up cutting some length off, it’s just not flattering on someone of my height and proportions. I think slightly above the knee would be more flattering. This was so easy to sew!! If you know anyone who’s interested in learning to sew, this would be a fantastic starter pattern. I’m even going to attempt to make another version, in a Doctor Who print, in one evening. Wish me luck! Happy sewing 🙂