The Lemon Dress (Gertie mashup dress)

April 29, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 7 Comments

I'm a hungover or trying to look cool? You decide. — I’m a hungover or trying to look cool? You decide.

In my last post, you got to meet Albus, the most handsome of gentleman. Today, you get to meet Lily Rose, my pretty yet cranky lady dog. Actually, you’ve seen Lily before, but it’s been awhile, so I felt reintroductions were necessary. Have you ever seen two dogs this photogenic? No, no you have not.

All my favorite pictures of me headless.

So the dress. This dress is the Gertie-est of Gertie dresses. The fabric is from her line at Joann’s, and the pattern is a mashup from her latest book. It’s common knowledge that I have a thing about sateens, and what can I say, her patterns just call to me.

Lily approves of the dress, my snuggles, not so much.

This dress came together in about 6 sleepy after work hours, though I had already made a quick muslin of the bodice. Being entirely honest, I didn’t follow the directions at all. I didn’t consciously decide to do this, just sort of started sewing, only realizing after that I hadn’t read any instructions. For the bodice (the strapless sweetheart), I added boning on all the seams of the lining, cutting them short in the boob area, to allow for cups. I should have added an additional piece according to the instructions, which I’m sure would have added more stability! For the cups, I did something truly white trash…I snipped the band off an old strapless bra and used the cups in the dress. Using the under wire as a guide, I sewed them to the lining also. In addition, I used horsehair braid around the top edge of the bodice, to help it hold it’s shape. To do that, I just stitched the bottom edge of the horsehair to the lining, and then understitched it along the top. I know that sounds like a lot, but as a strapless dress, I really wanted it to be solid.

See? Holding it's own. — See? Holding it’s own.

The skirt was really fairly straightforward. It’s the three-quarter circle skirt, with the only modification I made being the addition of side seam pockets, because that’s what I do. I cut a straight 6 for this entire dress, which is my RTW size, also. The fit was pretty spot on, the only change I would make next time would be to shorten the skirt a bit. I just really don’t like below the knee skirts on me, but somehow, I always forget about this when cutting fabric. Makes me a bit of a dumbass, but at least it’s an easy fix.

Kind of an awkward length for me, don't ya think? — Kind of an awkward length for me, don’t ya think?

The only major issue I had with this dress is entirely my own fault. Sewists, you should never rush an invisible zipper at 10:30pm, when your normal bedtime is 9:00. The zipper on this dress is FAR from invisible, and is for sure going to have to be redone. I always struggle with zippers, and I’m afraid this time was no exception. It really wouldn’t kill me to practice a bit.

I didn't even zip it all the way up!! Or make sure my dress wasn't on crooked. Blargh. — I didn’t even zip it all the way up!! Or make sure my dress wasn’t on crooked. Blargh.

Zippers aside, I’m really proud of this dress. That’s a lot of structural work for a six hour dress!!! Beyond that, the fabric is just fabulous. I feel like the dress belongs on the beach somewhere, with a pitcher of overly garnished margaritas. I do think I’ll wear it a lot, you’ll definitely be seeing it again during Me-Made-May. Let this serve as my declaration that ‘I, Ashley of Sewn by Ashley, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May ’16. I endeavour to wear one me-made item each day for the duration of May 2016’.

Fellow sewist, I can’t wait to see what you make and how the challenge inspires you! For my part, I’m hoping it gets to mend or alter some of old makes, and get those suckers worn! You will be able to see daily posts about it on my Instagram, I’ll also be doing a weekly round up here. I hope I don’t bore everyone too much!! I’ll leave you with a few more photos, happy sewing 🙂

Dog Dress 2 (By Hand London Kim Dress)

April 11, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 3 Comments

If you follow me at all, you know I’m obsessed with dogs, and especially my own, super handsome furry friends. The moment I saw this fabric online, there was no chance I was passing it up! It’s dogs in fucking bow ties, people, everyone needs this fabric! That said, it’s quilting cotton, albeit a lightweight cotton, so it’s not the most luxurious of fabrics…

Picture taking is 100% more fun when dogs are involved.

While I love this print, I really didn’t want to do a full dress with it. I think it would be a bit overwhelming, and I like to use fabric with a teensy bit of give for bust areas. I have several yards of black stretch sateen laying around for my Halloween costume, so I opted to borrow a little from that. In my mind, the sheen would help keep the dress from looking like it was made from curtains, but still keep the focus on the cutesy print.

Yes, there is dog hair on the bodice. Deal with it.

Keeping with that train of thought, I wanted to use a fairly simple pattern. It took me awhile to finally decide, but I settled on the By Hand London Kim dress. I’ve made it before, and really like the look of it. That said…last time I really struggled with the fabric. It wrinkled like mad, and just really did not press well. As a result, it just looks kinda sloppy, all the time. Frustrating, ya know? This effort was much better, with sateen and quilting cotton being some of the easiest fabrics to press. For this version, I shortened the straps a bit (could have shortened them more!), and didn’t take the bodice in. Previously, I had taken it in a bit, and I kinda wish I had again. I like a tight bodice, and I shouldn’t give into pressure to do things any other way! Lesson learned.

I know you can barely see the dress here, but come on. HE'S SO HANDSOME — I know you can barely see the dress here, but come on. HE’S SO HANDSOME

For the skirt, I went with a modified version of variation 2. I cut the pieces as instructed, but went with pleats instead of gathers, as is my preference. Just like with my last skirt, I used the bodice and my cutting mat grid as a guide. This time, my pleats are four squares (inches), with two inches separating them. No reasoning for that, just what I felt like doing, folks. I also added pockets, again using markings on the selvage as a guide. I know I should cut off the selvage, but…I like it.

Pleats! Also...I really should have put a red bowtie on Albus. Derp. — Pleats! Also…I really should have put a red bowtie on Albus. Derp.

I finished the zip right before photos, and totally didn’t realize how wonky it is. When I fix that, I will definitely tighten up the bodice a bit!! Also, I find that my shoulders always look wide in blog photos, but according to my measurements and the way every top has ever fit me, I don’t have even slightly wide shoulders. Has anyone else experienced this? How do you rectify it? Am I just standing weird again? HELP ME!!

Seriously, my shoulders are not this wide.

Overall, I really like this dress. I know I say that in nearly every post, but I mean it. Plus, I’ve found that the By Hand London dress block fits my shape best, within minimal alterations. Perfect, right? If I can get by with wearing dog faces on my clothes at work, this will go into the weekly rotation, and I can’t think of higher praise than that! I’ll leave you with one more picture, because I have actual decent photos again. Happy sewing 🙂

The Audrey Hepburn Outfit (Butterick 6285/Self drafted skirt)

April 5, 2016May 9, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 12 Comments

Sometimes, I buy fabric on impulse with no actual plans for it, like every other sewist (sewer? seamstress?) that I know. I’m pretty sure I bought this lovely Audrey Hepburn fabric with my friend Shannon before she was pregnant with her first child…she’s now on number two. So yeah, it’s been awhile. So long, in fact, that I can now find no actual links to it, sorry friends! 🙁

I swear her face isn't that distorted when I'm standing. Promise. — I swear her face isn’t that distorted when I’m standing. Promise.

For this particular fabric, I really struggled with finding something that wouldn’t require the beheading of Audrey. Not as easy as you’d think, folks. I considered a drindl skirt, but I’m really more of a pleats girl. I then thought about doing this lovely double pleated skirt from Gertie, but I didn’t have the required yardage for pattern matching. So I just thought, fuck it, I’ll make my own damn skirt pattern. I may have been a bit drunk when I decided this…

I cut the fabric from selvage to selvage, using the fabric pattern as a guide, so about 1 1/2 panels. I then measured my waist, divided by two, and made pleats in the fabric until it matched that measurement. Folks, I just used my cutting mat to measure out the pleats, nothing fancy. My pleats are about three inches/squares wide. I cut two wide waist bands, interfaced, and stitched those to the skirt. I threw on some pockets using text on the selvage as a guideline, and then added a short side zip above that. Completely just winging it.

The trick to back photos is not to show your back.

The top is the wrap top from the above mentioned Butterick skirt/top combo pattern. This pattern is crazy easy to sew up, with an awesome sewalong from Gertie herself. I have to be honest, though, the cutting threw me for a loop! There are only two pieces, with the sleeves, front, and back being all together on one, and the ties being separate. Just trust in Gertie, though, it all comes together easily and quickly! I used black ponte for mine, which I think has a bit less stretch than intended. To compensate, I used my serger and a smaller seam allowance.

076 — Extra picture just because I’m stoked on having decent pictures.

Next time, I would do a knit with more stretch and the proper seam allowance, I think it would me more favors in the boob area, you know? Overall, I’m pretty stoked on this project. Both components were finished in an obscenely small amount of time, and I will definitely be wearing them again! I’m currently searching for a print to for the double pleated skirt, so hopefully you’ll be seeing that soon. Happy sewing 🙂