Lemon Dress Part II (Sewaholic Lonsdale)

Lemon Dress Part II (Sewaholic Lonsdale)

The sun was in my eyes for all of these, so weird faces are imminent.

Every year at the beginning of spring, I break out my summer dresses and wonder why I haven’t made more from each pattern. Such was the case when I wore my Octopus dress a few weeks ago. The pattern is Sewaholic Lonsdale and my oh my is it amazing. My previous version was in an AMAZING lawn from Cotton & Steel, I’m obsessed with it. The fabric is so soft and feels wonderful, the pattern is super flattering and comfortable. I forgo the strapless bra about half the time with this one, ladies you KNOW that’s an achievement.

Legit almost fell down right after this photo.

So obviously I knew I wanted more of these in my closet. This year I’m all about light, easy summer dresses, see Instagram for further evidence of this growing problem! The problem with wanting an army of lovely summer dresses is that you have to find lovely summer dress fabric. I’ve currently put a halt on my fabric buying, my stash is out of control, so I had to rely on what I have. Thanking my past self, I found this lovely lemon fabric deep in the hoard. It’s the last bit of yardage that remained at my local Joann’s, sadly it’s discontinued. Trust me when I say sadly, I legitamately mourned this fabric. It’s a lovely sateen, much lighter than other sateens. I sewed up a strapless dress in it last summer, and it’s still one of my favorite makes.

Shadow face

The pattern is fairly simple to construct, the instructions are clear and well written. There is a sew along that comes in handy during the trickier parts, like the upper front bodice sections. Tasia, wherever you are, you are brilliant. I always find her patterns so easy to follow and sew alongs so helpful! Anyway, I digress…

Tied the back too tight, loops look weird. Oops.

For this pattern, I cut a size 10. Though Sewaholic patterns are drafted for a pear shape and I’m an hourglass, this dress isn’t fitted through the hips so I didn’t fuss with alterations there. I do find the skirt to be much too long for me, so I did a very lazy alteration there. I cut the skirt length to the smallest size, and did a 1 1/2 inch hem. Also, this pattern is a serious fabric hog, calling for 4 1/2 yards. I didn’t have that, so I cut on a single layer to save fabric. I still came up a little short on fabric though, so the straps are a few inches shorter than drafted.

Those shoes though

I am so stoked to have another Lonsdale in my closet! I hated to use up the last of my beloved lemon fabric, but I think it was worth it. What about you, are you in summer sewing mode yet?

Flannel #2 (Sewaholic Granville/Sewaholic 1501)

Flannel #2 (Sewaholic Granville/Sewaholic 1501)

When you have dogs, your yard is just mud. Sorry.
When you have dogs, your yard is just mud. Sorry.

This is my second go at the Sewaholic Granville, with more stash fabric. Again from Joann’s, again teal. What can I say, it was a phase. Though I think I recall these being from the same collection, this fabric is definitely a lighter weight, and therefore hangs differently. Blargh.

I don't know why my pictures are so grainy lately.
I don’t know why my pictures are so grainy lately.

The sewing is basically the same as my last Granville, with a few exceptions. Namely, I sewed the side seams at the recommended 5/8″, instead of the 1″ I’d done before. I thought maybe that would help with the gapping at the bust, but alas, it did not. I think that’s just bad snap placement. Or perhaps I should grade out there?  Either way, I really don’t like the shape this creates.  I think the combo of the fabric change and seam change made for a less flattering top.  Fuck it.

The back view is always just me standing weird.
The back view is always just me standing weird.

This version was also a good bit rushed, as I wanted to wear it to a concert. That didn’t happen. However, the rushing definitely shows in the finished product. The stitching is a bit wonky, and the collar hasn’t help up to washing. Don’t rush your sewing folks! Does anyone else have a tendency to set arbitrary deadlines and then proceed to stress out about it? It’s so silly!!

Pictured: wonky stitching.
Pictured: wonky stitching.

I can say, cutting was not nearly as bad this time. I don’t know if that’s a credit to simpler plaid, having just done this, or both (probably both), but it was a much speedier process. I’m considering doing my next Granville in a knit, so that cutting process should be interesting. Any suggestions??

070
Does anyone else get bored taking pictures of themselves?

I really can’t think of anything else to add, I think I said it all last time!! I still love this pattern, and will make it again. Happy sewing 🙂

Flannel Shirt Attempt #1 (Sewaholic Granville/Sewaholic 1501)

Flannel Shirt Attempt #1 (Sewaholic Granville/Sewaholic 1501)

How many excuses are you guys willing to accept for poor photography?
How many excuses are you guys willing to accept for poor photography?

I’ve always had a deep love of flannel shirts. Unfortunately, I’ve also always had crazy long Stretch Armstrong arms, and those two things just don’t go together. For some time now, though, I’ve been wanting to make one but have also been super intimidated by it. The plaid matching! The sleeve plackets! The collar! THE FEAR

I also like to put my hands in my sleeves always.
I also like to put my hands in my sleeves always.

I’ve had a few bits of flannel laying around for awhile, bought for a steal at Joann’s, so long ago that the fabric no longer appears to be available. I think it probably cost me about $3 a yard, so it seemed perfect for a wearable muslin. To do the plaid matching, I cut all my fabric on a single layer. I also cut one piece at a time, going around the body, using the piece I’d just cut to match the other, if that makes sense? Probably not the most efficient way to do things, but it was my plaid virginity and I wanted it to be good, dammit. That said, I did cut the pockets and yoke on a bias. With the seaming on the back, there was no chance of matching, and I just like bias pockets.

Not bad, for my first try at matching.
Not bad, for my first try at matching.

The pattern is the Sewaholic Granville, and it’s absolutely lovely. Tasia also has a super helpful sewalong on her blog, highly recommend. I cut a 10, which was actually a size down, but I wanted my flannel a little tight. I added two inches to the arms, and none to the body. Fun trick: I didn’t cut one front piece smaller or add a button placket. Instead, I cut both the same size, then pressed and folded the excess over (on the front) to create a placket look. I got the idea from Tasia, mine is a teensy bit different, but the same premise. I promise, it sounds a lot clumsier than it actually is. I omitted interfacing there, as I was using pearl snaps and didn’t think it was necessary. This was also my first try at flat felled seams, I think I’m in love. So clean looking!

Not the best photo, but check out those seams!
Not the best photo, but check out those seams!

Speaking of snaps, I kind of disregarded the pattern instructions from button placement and just used my plaid as a guide. Not the wisest. There’s gaping down the front, and the sleeves need an extra snap to keep it from being way too open. I also could stand to take the shoulders in a bit, they’re too wide and and it looks sloppy. Speaking of sloppy, one of the sleeves is absolutely sewn on backwards. Whoops.

You never realize how much you slouch or how awkwardly you stand until you see yourself from behind.
You never realize how much you slouch or how awkwardly you stand until you see yourself from behind.

All and all, I’m pretty stoked on this shirt. I’ve worn it at least six times since I made it, I’m actually wearing it right now! I have another sitting at home waiting for snaps, look for it in the coming weeks. Happy sewing 🙂

Sewaholic Davie Dress (Sewaholic 1503)

Sewaholic Davie Dress (Sewaholic 1503)

I can't explain why I look 11.
I can’t explain why I look 11.

I don’t what it is about fall that makes me want to make knit dresses. It seems most people make them in the summer, but…cozy knits are all about fall for me. This particular knit came from Joann’s and was purchased specifically for the Davie dress. The fabric has a good bit of stretch, but is still pretty solid and holds it’s shape well, which I thought would be perfect for this.

"Yeah, definitely take my picture in front of the bucket"
“Yeah, definitely take my picture in front of the bucket”

I decided early on to not do the top stitching here, because this fabric is textured and I wanted the focus to be on that. In hindsight, I think black top stitching would look pretty good on this one. Since I skipped that, I made this dress almost entirely with my serger. I really wish I had a cover stitch machine, I’d love to finish my hems and necklines that way! But alas, I don’t. So all openings were just turned and stitched. 🙁

I like fat hems and I cannot lie.
I like fat hems and I cannot lie.

This pattern is crazy easy. No darts, no pleats, all princess seams. In honesty, I didn’t use the instructions. I cut view B in an 8, and just started sewing all the pieces together. I should have cut a 10, but since I was just serging and therefore having a smaller seam allowance, I sized down. The keyhole is very easy, again just fold and stitch. I’m not sure what Tasia suggests as far as hem size, but I like a large hem and I definitely had enough length to do it.

Don't look at the hair, just don't it.
Don’t look at the hair, just don’t it.
Blurry face and body, but not blurry dress?  PERFECT.
Blurry face and body, but not blurry dress? PERFECT.

Also I added the Saltspring again. I tend to add them where there are already notches on the pattern, because it’s just easy. On this dress, I think it added too much bulk to the hips. I wish I had done them lower or maybe in a different, less bulky fabric. Also this dress is probably a bit looser than it should be, but I liked that it didn’t cling to my stomach, so I didn’t take it in. I’m happy with the fit, and it’s seriously comfortable. Secret pajamas in the best way! I can’t think of much more to say on this one, it’s such a simple make! I hope you like it. Happy sewing 🙂