The Nightmare Dress (Butterick 6089)

October 26, 2015October 26, 2015 by Ashley ♥ 4 Comments

Do you remember the Nightmare Coat? It was my very first post, so probably not. The nightmare coat earned it’s name based on that fucking headache-inducing fabric. The nightmare dress is made of something very similar, just thinner. It’s a thin wool houndstooth, from Joann’s sometime last year. It also has the same tendency to fray and drive me insane.

I had originally made this dress with a longer hem line and 3/4 sleeves, so that I could wear it work without a cardigan. When I say originally, I mean last Christmas, when I started this one (I’ve been on a serious finishing ufo’s kick). To be honest, it looked a kinda dowdy that way. A little Laura Ingalls Wilder, ya know? To top it off, the fabric seemed to fray every time I looked at it, even though I’d stitched and serged everything? I need some tips on dealing with this tricky fabric!

Forward to a few weeks ago, when I decided to dust it off (literally) and fix it. I chopped the sleeves off and raised the hem above the knee, then just turned under and hemmed. In honesty, I have no idea where the pattern is or what size I cut. I do remember assembling the bodice and skirt per the pattern instructions. Last winter I was a good bit thinner than I am now, and it shows in this dress. Check out the pleats in the picture below to see what I’m talking about.

I kinda like this dress as is, I just would make it a bit looser, fix the arm scythe, and use a different fabric. I love the red and black, it gives it a sort of 90’s punk rock look, which I am all about. But this fabric…ugh. Never again. NEVER!!!

I don't give a fuck what you think. — I don’t give a fuck what you think.

All of that said, I will wear this dress until it falls apart. I wear every single garment I’ve ever made, even the fails. I took my time and effort to make something out of a flat sheet of fabric, and that’s damn impressive. I am proud of each project, truly. If you don’t like what I make or feel I could have made it better, you don’t have to look at it. That’s how it works. I have found the online sewing community to be extremely warm and welcoming overall, I love talking to you all and seeing all the wonderful things you’ve made. I like discussing techniques and laughing at errors with you. But for the minority of you who just choose to be kind of shitty, might I suggest you fuck off?

Sewaholic Davie Dress (Sewaholic 1503)

October 9, 2015 by Ashley ♥ 2 Comments

I can't explain why I look 11. — I can’t explain why I look 11.

I don’t what it is about fall that makes me want to make knit dresses. It seems most people make them in the summer, but…cozy knits are all about fall for me. This particular knit came from Joann’s and was purchased specifically for the Davie dress. The fabric has a good bit of stretch, but is still pretty solid and holds it’s shape well, which I thought would be perfect for this.

"Yeah, definitely take my picture in front of the bucket" — “Yeah, definitely take my picture in front of the bucket”

I decided early on to not do the top stitching here, because this fabric is textured and I wanted the focus to be on that. In hindsight, I think black top stitching would look pretty good on this one. Since I skipped that, I made this dress almost entirely with my serger. I really wish I had a cover stitch machine, I’d love to finish my hems and necklines that way! But alas, I don’t. So all openings were just turned and stitched. 🙁

This pattern is crazy easy. No darts, no pleats, all princess seams. In honesty, I didn’t use the instructions. I cut view B in an 8, and just started sewing all the pieces together. I should have cut a 10, but since I was just serging and therefore having a smaller seam allowance, I sized down. The keyhole is very easy, again just fold and stitch. I’m not sure what Tasia suggests as far as hem size, but I like a large hem and I definitely had enough length to do it.

Don't look at the hair, just don't it. — Don’t look at the hair, just don’t it.

Blurry face and body, but not blurry dress? PERFECT.

Also I added the Saltspring again. I tend to add them where there are already notches on the pattern, because it’s just easy. On this dress, I think it added too much bulk to the hips. I wish I had done them lower or maybe in a different, less bulky fabric. Also this dress is probably a bit looser than it should be, but I liked that it didn’t cling to my stomach, so I didn’t take it in. I’m happy with the fit, and it’s seriously comfortable. Secret pajamas in the best way! I can’t think of much more to say on this one, it’s such a simple make! I hope you like it. Happy sewing 🙂

By Hand London Kim Dress

October 2, 2015April 11, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 2 Comments

I'm told I don't look like a ham here. I'm not buyin' it. — I’m told I don’t look like a ham here. I’m not buyin’ it.

A few weeks ago, the lovely people at Minerva Crafts sent me a few yards of this lovely polka dot chambray. While chambray screams “make a Granville” to me, I wanted to do a dress. Probably because I always want to make a dress. I’d been wanting to make a Kim dress for awhile, so there you have it. Chambray Kim dress. In honesty, I was expecting the fabric to take MUCH longer to arrive (it took about a week or two), so I shamefully shelved it for a bit while I finished my other projects :/

"Hey, look how awkwardly I can stand. Pretty cool, I know" — “Hey, look how awkwardly I can stand. Pretty cool, I know”

For starters, this dress was an absolute dream to sew. The fabric cuts and sews beautifully. I whipped through the dress in a day and a half, and that’s including the time I spent unpicking (serged) things I’d sewn on upside down. Sadly, it’s just a given that I’ll sew something upside down, or backwards, or to the wrong side…I do it every time. It’s probably pathetic.

I like how this angle really shows the wrinkles from playing with puppies.

I really, really like the bodice on this pattern. I cut a straight US 10 of version 2, and the bodice fits me pretty well, though I did take in a bit. I could probably stand to shorten the straps a bit, but I’m not complaining. The bodice has princess seams, so no darts. It’s also fully lined, which I always love. I tried to follow the bodice instructions completely, and I’m glad I did. It’s an interesting way to do things (at least to a novice like myself), but the finish is really clean and the assembly is easy. That said, it’s hard to know how it’s going to fit until it’s finished. If you’re concerned about fit, definitely do a muslin! I’m terrible about making muslins. I almost never do it and that’s because I’m both very busy and very lazy. It helps that I have a fairly standard “hourglass” figure, so my fit issues are typically minimal for sleeveless dresses. Pants and jackets are another story entirely!

For the skirt, I also cut a US 10, this time of version 1. The versions are easily interchangeable, so mix it up! I personally always prefer a sweetheart neckline to a scoop. The petal skirt is what originally attracted me to this pattern, and it didn’t disappoint. There are four simple darts and a bit of pleating (pictured above), which I adore. More details about those woes in a future post! The pattern calls for basting the overlapping front portions together before attaching to the bodice, which I liked and seemed to work well. I do think next I would slim the skirt down a bit. I would for sure like something a bit more fitted. I also think I will do a stitch to hold the front pieces together. On photo day, it was pretty windy, I only narrowly avoiding a wardrobe mishap! Like always, I added some pockets, always pockets. My apologies for the wrinkly look, but there was a puppy to play with!

Okay and maybe I did a shitty job pressing the pockets. Hush.

On the back, I omitted the hook and eye. I know it looks better to have it, but I have giant man hands and they’re tiny and fiddly and I hate sewing them. It pains me. I’ve convinced myself that the zip on it’s own doesn’t look horrible, so whatever. Now that Kim is finished, I think it’s time to get more of this fabric and make that Granville! Happy sewing 🙂

OH! And I chopped my hair off!!! What up, mid life crisis?!?

Sewn by Ashley

Month: October 2015

The Nightmare Dress (Butterick 6089)

Sewaholic Davie Dress (Sewaholic 1503)

By Hand London Kim Dress