Alix Dress Pattern Tester (By Hand London Alix Dress)

October 22, 2016October 24, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 2 Comments

Sewing time has been very limited for me as of late, but I always make time to test for my favorite pattern companies. When By Hand London, sent over their Alix Dress, I was super stoked to cut into it! Alix comes in three lengths (tunic top, minidress, and maxi), I opted for the maxi length. Generally, I do believe shorter is better, but a can wear a maxi length dress to work without have to put on tights! For me, that’s just fucking fantastic.

Really showing off my Dumbledore nose here.

Alix is definitely a style departure for me. She has a definite 70’s feel, with billowy sleeves and a flowing skirt. The sleeves and flowing skirt are so comfortable, though. The bodice is lowcut, but not too lowcut, just enough. There are no zippers or buttons here, the wast ties give it shape. It still feels so elegant though! We’re talking next level secret pajamas here.

One strand of uncurled hair, as per the usual

I followed the pattern almost exactly, cutting a US size 10 (UK 14), and adding my standard 2″ to the sleeves. Oh and pockets, of course I added inseam pockets. I used black poly peachskin from Joann’s, which is not exactly the ideal fabric for this. Head to toe poly? Yikes! But it was the only black swishy fabric I could find in the appropriate width (maxi length requires a wider fabric), so I made due. It’s actually not bad for fall, though in the spring and summer, I’d prefer a rayon, perhaps.

I almost wish there was a bit more room in the bust, I will probably add that for my tunic version. Other than that, I have no problems with Alix! The directions were easy to follow and as detailed as always. It’s super comfortable to wear, yet still elegant. I wore mine out last night for a witch-themed charity event, and got so many compliments. Are you planning to sew up an Alix dress? Happy sewing 🙂

Even more Kim Dresses (By Hand London Kim Dress, duh)

September 21, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 2 Comments

My bangs need to be upgraded. Get it? Because Cybermen

Anytime I don’t know what to do with a fabric, I immediately think of the Kim Dress. The princess seams suit prints better than darts, in my mind, at least. I’ve made this pattern a few times, and BHL dresses tend to fit me pretty well without a lot of fuss, which is great for someone without a lot of free time. Now, that said, they are tight. I like tight, if you don’t, size up. Whatever floats your boat!

Nothing says "this series really isn't for children" like a mini dress, right? — Nothing says “this series really isn’t for children” like a mini dress, right?

Both the Harry Potter fabricand the Doctor Who fabric are quilting cotton, and the Kim Dress really lends itself to such fabrics. You don’t need any stretch, and it comes together so so easily. FYI, you will never convince me there’s a better way to sew a fully lined bodice than the way Kim is done. Seriously, it’s the best. We’re talking burrito method levels of magic! That said, I opted not to line the Harry Potter version you see here, entirely because I just wanted to see how I’d like it bias finished. Spoiler: It’s not as good, just line the damn thing.

Serious question: do you guys ever just wish I'd take the damn hair tie off my wrist?? — Serious question: do you guys ever just wish I’d take the damn hair tie off my wrist??

As I said, I’ve made this pattern before, this one being one of my most complimented makes. In all honesty, I haven’t used the skirt portion of the pattern for any of these. Not because they aren’t lovely, because they certainly are. Only because I’m lazy and I didn’t want to pin and cut the pattern piece. Each of these have been made just using a rectangle of fabric. For today’s versions, the rectangle was a good deal smaller, because that’s how much fabric I had. Previously, I did large pleats. This time, I just did a few simple gathers. No biggie.

Back isn't broken, just awkward. — Back isn’t broken, just awkward.

The only alteration I made was to take off half an inch at the shoulder seams. I have short shoulders, so this is fairly common for me. Other than that…I don’t really have a lot to add, sorry. If you’re making one for the first time, you could always construct the lining as your muslin. Princess seams and side seams are super easy to adjust! As I mentioned before, the pattern doesn’t have a lot of ease, so if you’re in doubt, size up! Happy sewing 🙂

Seam Ripping Woes (Colette Rue Tester)

September 6, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 6 Comments

I was pretty stoked to be part of the testing group for the new Colette pattern, so when they sent over Rue, I immediately started thinking of fabric ideas. I really wanted to use something that showed off the curved lines on the bodice. Originally, I planned to do version 2 (with the longer sleeves) in this mammoth flannel from Robert Kaufman, but the thought of that plaid matching made my heart hurt. After browsing my fabric stash on Cora, I settled on this Cotton and Steel print.

Weird claw hand courtesy of my camera remote.

At first glance, I found the instructions for Rue to be a bit daunting, there are 46 (PDF) pages! Not to worry, though, the instructions contain detailed layouts and directions for both versions. WHEW! Rue is fully lined, so do expect to invest a little extra time for construction. Most of the bodice shaping comes from the curved front seam and some small tucks on each side. The front seam curve comes up a bit too high or too low on me, I can’t decide which. I think for the pattern it should be higher, but for my taste, lower? Either way, it needs fixing.

I promise I don't sleep standing up. — I promise I don’t sleep standing up.

I opted to cut the side front pieces on the bias, because I thought it would look cool. The pattern does NOT call for this, so if you do it, keep in mind that bias cut stuff will stretch. This was especially a problem for me, because I had trouble matching up the bodice pieces on my muslin as well, even though that was straight cut. I don’t know why, but they just wouldn’t line up for me! I imagine it’s user error, as it’s ALWAYS user error. This is version 2, the one with the longer sleeves and skirt gathers. I decided to shorten the sleeves last minute and didn’t want to print the pattern all over again. So be warned, these are not the version 1 sleeves. Other than that, I made no alterations. That is, unless you’re thinking of that fucking GIANT weird pleat pucker thing near the neckline. That beauty is courtesy of seam ripper accident. Don’t rush your sewing, folks, just don’t.

I'm still pissed at my seam ripper. — I’m still pissed at my seam ripper.

All and all, Rue came together a lot more quickly than I’d expected, seam ripper destruction and all. This is exactly the kind of thing I’ve been meaning to make for office wear, cute yet still professional. Maybe I can work up the courage to suffer through plaid matching for a longer sleeved version? I’ll have to consult some vodka about it, but it just might happen! Happy sewing 🙂

A Knit Success (Jennifer Lauren Handmade Gable Top)

September 2, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 6 Comments

It’s been awhile since I’ve posted, I know. I’ve been working on a swimsuit, but I’m having some fit issues. I’ve also run out of summer, so you’ll not being seeing that suit until next year. In the meantime, I’ve had an actual success with a knit fabric, which is unheard of. The pattern is the Gable Top from Jennifer Lauren Handmade, which she so graciously provided to me for reviewing. So yes, the pattern was free, but my opinions are still my own.

Not preggo, just standing weird in high waisted jeans. Also, I like snacks.

There are two things I love in a PDF pattern: a nested pattern (patterns that allow you to print only certain sizes) and a very organized PDF file. Jennifer’s is the later. The Gable Top comes with three sleeve options, and in the instructions, she tells you which pages to print for each. No need to print the whole pattern just for the short sleeves. My cutting area is pretty small, so it also helps that I can assemble sections at a time (bodice front, back, sleeves), instead of the entire garment.

The instructions are really straight forward, this would be a great beginner pattern! There’s plenty of information about choosing the right knit fabric, and explanations of the sewing terms. As you know, I fucking hate knits, and I never ever seem to use the right one. Based on her descriptions, I was able to dig DEEP in the stash and pull out this fabric, which turned out to be perfect! I actually used this fabric for this tank, which was old even then. Yay for stash busting!

Assembly went by crazy quickly. I mean wow. I cut a size 12, based on my measurements (37/29/40), and liked the fit. This top has negative ease, so it’s really fitted. If that’s not for you, size up. Originally I’d planned to do the cuffed sleeves, but didn’t have enough fabric, so short sleeves it was. Now, before I’d even started sewing, I knew I was going to insert the sleeves flat, meaning I would sew the sleeves together at the same time as the bodice. If that makes sense. I was very pleasantly surprised to see that’s exactly what the instructions called for! Bravo, Jennifer.

Realized I can turn my camera to the side, using my tripod, was a revelation.

I did most of the construction with my serger, with the exception of hems and finishing the neckline. You don’t have to do that, it’s just my preference. For the sleeves, I just serged the edges and stitched them down with a straight stitch. For the waist, I wanted a little stretch, but I hate a zig zag stitch. I ended up doing a very shallow (I don’t know the correct term here) zig zag stitch, with a stitch height of about 1.5. On the neckline, you just fold it down and stitch. There’s a bit of play there, so try it on and see what you like. As per the pattern, I added a bit of ribbon on the shoulder seems to give it a bit of stability, that’s topstitched down. That’s all there was to it! Easy peasy. I actually wore this out, and no one believed it was handmade, so that’s a win. I can’t believe I’m going to say this, but…I actually plan to make this KNIT top again. Shocking, I know.

Shorts & Body Issues (Grainline Studio Maritime Shorts)

August 10, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 14 Comments

"Why the fuck did I made shorts!?" — “Why the fuck did I made shorts!?”

Fun fact about me, I almost never wear shorts. By almost never I mean only around the house when the air is out. Why do I avoid shorts, knowing that it’s hotter than Satan’s armpit in Ohio right now? Because I hate my thighs. I hate things clinging to them, I hate their shape, size, everything. Hate ’em. I know this is a terrible attitude to have, but body issues are a real thing and we all have them. I am not immune, by any means. Knowing all this…WHY THE FUCK DID I MAKE SHORTS!?!?!

The truth is, I was hoping they didn’t look as bad as I thought. In reality, they probably don’t. It’s probably not nearly as bad as I think it is. But in my head…blargh. So I’m gonna show you the back view of these shorts anyway…which is a damn miracle. I did snap a picture of the waistband, while I was wearing the shorts. I wanted to show some of the problems I had, but I’m not quite to the point yet where I’m ready for the internet to see my stomach.

Also my hair is being super awful. Humidity is not my friend!

So let’s talk about the sewing. These are the Maritime Shorts from Grainline Studio. I’m calling these a wearable muslin. I have copious amounts of black stretch sateen laying around, so I opted to use that, instead of muslin. The logic behind that being that the tiny bit of stretch in the fabric would cover a few test fit errors. And it did, kinda.

I do think these are a bit snug, I’d probably go up a size next time, but grade in a bit at the waist. The waist fits, but the fabric “grows” with wear. For the waistband and pocket linings, I used a fun tulip print left over from this dress, which I forgot to snap pictures of. Sorry! The stretch in the fashion fabric and lack of stretch in the lining did give my a bit of grief when it came to finishing the waistband. Probably also because I’m a dummy and interfaced the lining fabric instead of sateen, derp. I’m sure if I’d done that right, I wouldn’t be having this problem! The pattern actually comes together pretty easily, but I would suggest following the instructions carefully. I was scratching my head a bit while construction the fly/fly shield. Just have faith, it all comes together smoothly in the end. I do think, if I made them again, I’d add about two inches to the length. Just personal preference, but I like my shorts just a hair longer, and with a deeper hem. Again, that’s just my preference, not a fault in the pattern. If I ever convince myself to wear shorts again, I’d give this pattern another try. But lets not hold our breath for that!!! What about you guys, how do you feel about shorts??

The 31st Birthday Dress (Lekala 4519)

August 1, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 7 Comments

How did I not notice this giant string???

So there’s serger thread hanging off the back of this skirt. You see it, I see it, lets move on. I also look real pissed off here, and that’s because I was! The air went out at my place, and it is roasting. I also broke my tripod setting up. Please excuse my bitch face! It was a rough one.

Also it rained, so I couldn't set up outside. — Also it rained, so I couldn’t set up outside.

Now, the dress. I’ve always wanted a proper shelf bust dress, with the band below the bust, not across. I stumbled upon this pattern on Instagram (I’m sorry, I don’t remember the user), and it seemed to be exactly what I was looking for! I’ve never sewn a Lekala pattern before, so I wasn’t sure what to expect. Turns out, it’s a Russian company, and seeemingly very different than what I’m used to. For starters, you have the option to enter your exact measurements, and their program will create the pattern in your size, with or without seam allowance. I’m not sure how this works, it definitely doesn’t have the designer feel, like other pattern companies. But hey, the pattern was $3, so I figured it was worth a try.

Either I did something wrong here, or the pattern just wasn’t that great. For a pattern created based on my measurements, it really needed some alterations. I took every single bodice seam in half an inch, my first attempt at this bodice was HUGE! There are only two darts on the bodice, just on the bodice back, and those were clearly marked. I ordered the pattern with seam allowances, which I followed carefully. I don’t understand how I could have messed this part up, unless I just suddenly don’t know how to measure myself? For what it’s worth, I am corseted in these pictures, but I tried the bodice muslin on sans corset, and it was still giant! Also, the pattern illustration shows the skirt hitting just below the knee, which is the length I was expecting. As you can see, mine is much shorter than that! Now, I’ve been the same height since tenth grade, so there’s no way I got that bit wrong! I am wearing a petticoat here, so perhaps we can attribute some of the length problems to that? Sure…

Now for the good. The alterations to the bodice were really simple, and I LOVE the way this bodice fits. It’s exactly what I’ve always wanted! The shape it creates, with corset and petticoat combo, is just perfect. Construction was actually pretty simple, I did it in about 5 hours. Rushing created imperfections, but I can live with that! The instructions are sparse to say the least, but that really wasn’t a problem for me. I believe the instructions don’t call for a bodice lining (or even tell you how much fabric you need), but I added one anyway. Usually, I would have also added boning to the bodice, I just think a shelf bust dress should always have it. But here, with the steel boned long line corset on, I felt like I could get away without it. The most difficult part of construction was pleating the bust cups, and that’s really just tedious.

I think I will make this one again and again, with a longer skirt. For this version, I used the black stretch sateen and the Gertie lemon fabric, both of which I’ve used in the past. I’d really like to see it in a bold floral, maybe Christmasy red plaid, with black bust cups. This version got rave reviews at my birthday dinner and drinks, which is really the best I could ask for. I couldn’t be happier with it, despite what my face says.

An Unpopular Pattern (By Hand London Sabrina)

July 26, 2016July 26, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 6 Comments

Pretend you don't see a remote — Pretend you don’t see a remote

I rarely ever research a pattern before I buy it. I know a lot of sewists do, and perhaps I should, but I don’t. So when I saw the Sabrina dress from BHL, I snapped it up without a second thought. I’d been searching for the perfect pattern to use with Gertie fabric, and this gave me beautiful 90’s nostalgia. So imagine my surprise when I finally searched and found almost no reviews…

No, the back isn't uneven, I'm just standing weird again. — No, the back isn’t uneven, I’m just standing weird again.

What’s with the hate, sewists? The pattern is fairly straightforward, alterations are easy. In this rayon, it’s light and breezy, perfect for summer. Putting it on, I immediately wanted Dr. Pepper lip smacker lip balm, glittery eyeshadow, and platform shoes. I wanted to sit in an inflatable chair and watch Friends. How could any of that be so bad? Is it the buttons? I’ll admit, when I saw the pattern call for 30 buttons, it seemed a bit daunting. In reality, though, I could only fit 14 on the dress, and my buttons were pretty small. What gives, folks?

To be fair, I did make some slight alterations. Once the dress body was assembled, the dress gaped too much under the arms. To remedy, I just made a dart at the top of the side seam, if that makes sense. I added pockets, albeit too low pockets. It’s a fairly common mistake for me, but sometimes I place my pockets at the most comfortable place. I have fairly long arms, so this is rarely flattering, they should really be several inches higher. I also omitted the facings, because I hate facings and I try to take them out whenever possible. I’m not a big fan of creating thin straps, either, so those had to go as well. I lieu of the facings and straps, I have thin bias tape. I bound the neckline seams with bias, and extended it up to create straps. Quick, easy, and it didn’t cause me to lose my temper. Win win.

The placket was the only thing that really threw me for me a loop here. I’ve never sewn a placket without using interfacing, and this dress calls for none. I wasn’t really sure how well my machine would handle buttonholes on uninterfaced flimsy fabric, but it went flawlessly. I think I will probably nip the waist in a bit more, but overall, it’s a great, comfortable dress. It’s been oppressively hot and humid in Ohio lately, but I stayed as cool as possible all day in this. Really, you guys, what gives??

The Doctor Who Dress (Tilly & the Buttons Mashup)

July 18, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 2 Comments

I’ve had both the Tilly and the Buttons book and this Doctor Who fabric laying around for quite some time. Since winter, possibly. The fabric is basic quilting cotton (trust me, I wish it wasn’t), so I’d been toying with several patterns, trying to decide how to use it. I hate quilting cotton, but I love Doctor Who, so whatever. I wanted something that would showcase the print, but at the same time play nicely with the 0% give of the fabric. Once I started flipping through Tilly’s book, I discovered the Lilou dress, complete with a bow tie belt. Perfect for Doctor Who, right?!?

So I accidentally set my phone camera to square and also framed myself terribly.

The only problem, at least for me, was the pleated skirt. It seemed to me that the lines of text on the print wouldn’t work well with pleats. So I opted for the Delphine skirt, with it’s sleek lines and sturdy shape, it was a much better option. Now, you may have noticed, there’s no bow tie belt here! Truth is, I got super frustrated with it. Irrationally so. The plan was to just attach the bow tie to the exiting waist band. But the first bow tie was far too small for the band. The second was a fine size, but then I felt the black bow tie on the black band would be lost. I contemplated a third, this time in the print, but the dogs had carried off my scrap fabric. So…no bow tie. Sorry, folks!

Based on my measurements and Tilly’s size guide, I cut a 4. I love a fitted dress, but this is a bit too snug. I used stretch sateen for the waist band, because that’s just what I had, and I think that may have contributed to some of the bunching you’re seeing. I think next time I’ll cut a 6 and grade the waist. As always, I added pockets. I also decided to fully line the bodice instead of doing facings, because I fucking hate facings. After I serged the hem, I decided I liked the look of that, just as is with no additional bulk, so I just left it. I know that’s not very professional and isn’t something I’m supposed to do, but I’m not a professional. I do what I want!

I dunno why I didn't take any pictures from the other side? Or of the back... — I dunno why I didn’t take any pictures from the other side? Or of the back…

This dress definitely has a different vibe than most of the things I’ve sewn. Kind of 60’s, you know? I really need to make the Delphine skirt on it’s own, it’s so quick and easy, it would be great to have a few fun work skirts! The fabric is also really fun, I’m thinking of wearing this to Time Traveler’s weekend this year. Oh! And you may be noticing a bluish tinge to my hair. You’re eyes aren’t deceiving you, there are blue sections in there! It’s actually much more obvious in person, just wasn’t coming through in pictures. Happy sewing 🙂

The Unhemmed Dress (Colette Wren/Colette 1033)

July 11, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 8 Comments

I know I’ve been pretty vocal about it lately, but I’ll say it again, I fucking hate knits. I know I know, everyone loves them, and I get it, they’re comfy and they sew up quickly. I just can’t get on board. I tried, I made this knit dress several times. The times I made it in a woven were my favorite. I hate how knits “grow”, I hate they just flop everywhere with no structure. Ponte has structure, you say. I know, and if I must sew a knit, I prefer to use ponte. For this dress, I didn’t. For this dress, I made the worst fabric choice.

I got this lovely floral fabric from Girl Charlee during their big Christmastime sale. When Colette came out with the Wren pattern, I immediately thought of that floral fabric sitting in my stash. I love the vintage summertime feel of the fabric, and the pattern did call light to medium weight jersey with a nice drape! Perfect, right!?!? NO!

This fabric is WAY too lightweight for this dress. The skirt is just weighing the bodice down and and creating a shapeless mess. My measurements sit comfortably between the small and medium sizes, but I went ahead and cut the small. Should be a bit snug, right? NO! Not with 45% stretch. To make things just a bit more annoying, the white underside of the fabric shows through when stretched. UGH! I did try on the bodice before attaching it to the skirt, I basted the front bodice sections together where I wanted them. All seemed well!!! Added the skirt and everything went to shit. At this point, I decided not to even hem the sleeves or skirt. I was so frustrated, I couldn’t justify wasting more time here.

Is it better from the side? Nope, not at all.

At this point I should point out that the problem here wasn’t the pattern, but my terrible terrible fucking fabric choice. I should also admit, I skipped the waist elastic. Perhaps if I’d used that, this dress wouldn’t be such a tragedy? I doubt it, but it is possible. Maybe sometime in the future I’ll make it in a better fabric and my opinion of knits will change entirely, I have seen some really cute versions of this dress out there.

Catelyn is the only thing saving this picture.

I thought about not posting this dress, because it is such a fail. But…I’m human and sometimes my sewing just comes out awful. Why pretend like it doesn’t? I’ve learned things, like to stay far away from lightweight, super stretchy knits. I still wore it around the house yesterday, it’s comfortable enough to wear, as long as no one sees me. So it’s not a total waste! That said…I’m still treating myself to a woven project next. With no stretch! Happy sewing 🙂

The Six Hour Dress (Gertie surplice bodice & 3/4 circle skirt)

July 4, 2016July 5, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 12 Comments

These are cellphone on a tripod pictures, forgive them

I’m forever terrible at starting anything when I should. For instance, I knew months ago that I wanted to make this dress for the 4th of July. Weeks ago, I bought the fabric. When did I actually start the project? July 2nd, and by start I mean traced the bodice. Ugh.

The pattern is yet another one from Gertie’s latest book, this time using the surplice bodice. To save time, I used the same 3/4 circle skirt from my lemon dress. The fabric is a lovely blue cotton with embroidered anchors, I’ve been lusting over it for about a year! The bodice lining is a red sateen from my stash.

Despite the expression on my face, I love the skirt

Since I rushed myself and did my sewing at lightning speed, there are errors here. The hem needs to be redone, for sure. As for the bodice, I totally forgot to understitch, and the red keeps peeking out. I also need to adjust the bodice so it doesn’t gap open so much.

Now, full disclosure: I am not built like this. My waist is not nearly this small. In all of these, I’m wearing a steel boned waist training corset here. For a pinup-type dress, I like the dramatic curves a corset gives. I’m also wearing a petticoat, to add fullness and more drama to the skirt. Going for the whole package here, ya know?

Overall, this dress is FAR from perfect, but I’d still say it’s not too bad for a Saturday evening’s work. It’s patriotic as balls, if it wasn’t monsooning Ohio I’d be out celebrating the holiday in it! Happy 4th to my fellow American sewists, and to my international friends, I hope we’re not overwhelming you with blue and red! Happy sewing 🙂