The Jacket that Didn’t Want to Be (Butterick 6390)

November 23, 2016November 23, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 6 Comments

I have always wanted a jean jacket, one that actually fit my spaghetti arms. This pattern, Butterick 6390 was the perfect candidate for me, cropped and feminine, but with all the details I love so much. Gertie’s version have her signature vintage flair, but I opted for something a little more traditional.

The main fabric is a denim from Joann’s, unfortunately I’m not sure which one! I do know it has 2% stretch, though. Originally, I’d purchased the yardage to make a test pair of Ginger jeans, but you know…new patterns are fun. Plus jeans are scary as shit! For the lining, I opted to use this mammoth flannel from Robert Kaufman. The patterns calls for a lighter weight, silkier fabrics, but I wanted this to be warm and cozy!

I woke up early to take these and it shows. So cranky.

I’m going to be honest, this fucking jacket fought me every step of the way. In the beginning, my machine struggled with top stitching thread. I used a good quality Gutermann, thankfully I adjusted the tension (to 7) and got past that. Then, as per the usual, I struggled with the sleeve opening and cuff. I’ve never done a cuffed sleeve without a placket, my brain just couldn’t comprehend it. I had to walk away. Fast forward to attaching the waistband…my walking foot broke. You should know that I sew everything with the walking foot, I can’t remember the last time I used the “j” foot. Believe me when I tell you, I was distraught. I cried, I cursed, I threw things. I finished the waistband kind of shittily with unevenly fed layers. OH WELL MAN.

You just have to persevere, right? Now, I must admit, my machine made a mockery of the buttonholes, and I didn’t even care. They exist, they serve their purpose, that’s about all I’m asking for right now. I wanted to wear this thing to Thanksgiving, show off my sweet patches. Which are the Browncoats symbol from Firefly, the Doctor Who logo circa 9, and the Deathly Hallows symbol from Harry Potter, btw. I have a Torchwood patch somewhere, but I couldn’t find it. Bummer, I know.

Despite all this bitching and all the issues, I’m happy with end result. All the seams are flat felled seams, which always makes me happy. The pattern calls for top stitching on both sides of the seams, but I only did the one. I also used a coordinating thread color, because I was afraid my top stitching would be shit. I almost wish I hadn’t, though, because my stitching is actually pretty good! Other than dual top stitching, I also changed up the pattern by using jean buttons instead of regular buttons. I like hammering things, plus I like the look they give the jacket. I need to add them to the pockets, but I ran out. Beyond that, the only change I made was to size up to a straight 16. Based on measurements, I should have sewn a 12, but I wanted room to wear a hoodie or sweater underneath. I hope I didn’t scare you off, it really is a pattern worth sewing! Happy sewing 🙂

The Audrey Hepburn Outfit (Butterick 6285/Self drafted skirt)

April 5, 2016May 9, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 12 Comments

Sometimes, I buy fabric on impulse with no actual plans for it, like every other sewist (sewer? seamstress?) that I know. I’m pretty sure I bought this lovely Audrey Hepburn fabric with my friend Shannon before she was pregnant with her first child…she’s now on number two. So yeah, it’s been awhile. So long, in fact, that I can now find no actual links to it, sorry friends! 🙁

I swear her face isn't that distorted when I'm standing. Promise. — I swear her face isn’t that distorted when I’m standing. Promise.

For this particular fabric, I really struggled with finding something that wouldn’t require the beheading of Audrey. Not as easy as you’d think, folks. I considered a drindl skirt, but I’m really more of a pleats girl. I then thought about doing this lovely double pleated skirt from Gertie, but I didn’t have the required yardage for pattern matching. So I just thought, fuck it, I’ll make my own damn skirt pattern. I may have been a bit drunk when I decided this…

I cut the fabric from selvage to selvage, using the fabric pattern as a guide, so about 1 1/2 panels. I then measured my waist, divided by two, and made pleats in the fabric until it matched that measurement. Folks, I just used my cutting mat to measure out the pleats, nothing fancy. My pleats are about three inches/squares wide. I cut two wide waist bands, interfaced, and stitched those to the skirt. I threw on some pockets using text on the selvage as a guideline, and then added a short side zip above that. Completely just winging it.

The trick to back photos is not to show your back.

The top is the wrap top from the above mentioned Butterick skirt/top combo pattern. This pattern is crazy easy to sew up, with an awesome sewalong from Gertie herself. I have to be honest, though, the cutting threw me for a loop! There are only two pieces, with the sleeves, front, and back being all together on one, and the ties being separate. Just trust in Gertie, though, it all comes together easily and quickly! I used black ponte for mine, which I think has a bit less stretch than intended. To compensate, I used my serger and a smaller seam allowance.

076 — Extra picture just because I’m stoked on having decent pictures.

Next time, I would do a knit with more stretch and the proper seam allowance, I think it would me more favors in the boob area, you know? Overall, I’m pretty stoked on this project. Both components were finished in an obscenely small amount of time, and I will definitely be wearing them again! I’m currently searching for a print to for the double pleated skirt, so hopefully you’ll be seeing that soon. Happy sewing 🙂

A Failure in Photography (Butterick 6582, kinda)

January 22, 2016January 22, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 2 Comments

This is the best picture of the bunch, seriously.

You’re going to see pictures from a variety of locations in this post, and that’s going to be confusing. I’m sorry about that, I really tried to get decent pictures. It just didn’t happen. I’m attempting to take blog photos without the aid of my friends, and clearly, there are still a few bugs to work out. Next week will be better, I promise! ANYWAY…

The dress is Butterick 6582, and the fabric is an absolutely lovely stretch sateen. I’ve had both in my stash for so long, I can’t remember where they came from or when they were purchased! The pattern calls for light weight fabrics, but I just can’t get on board with the drapey fabrics tight on my midriff. Never going to happen. Based on the reviews, I also lowered the neckline a bit, but I think I should have lowered it even more. With the print, I still think it looks a bit matronly, you know? Not exactly my aesthetic. This pattern also features lovely double pointed darts, which I think are also a bit lost in the print. It was a bad fabric choice, that’s what I’m trying to get at here. Never rush your sewing choices, folks.

Looking for the darts makes my eyes hurt.

For this pattern, I cut a size 12, which is pretty standard for me. I raised the hem about three inches, as I don’t think the longer, intended length is flattering on me. As mentioned, I lowered the neckline, and I must admit, it was a bit unsuccessful. You see, I made this dress for a work Christmas party, and I was rushing to meet the deadline. Again. I didn’t put enough time into getting it just the way I wanted. Between the botched neckline and the stiffer fabric, it has none of the intended drapey-ness. It’s a bummer.

Some pretty serious derps, but check out those shoes, though.

The pattern is fairly easy to put together, as it’s only four pieces plus facings. This was first time sewing double pointed pleats, and I love them. They’re so flattering, even if you can’t tell in any of this pictures!

II swear, I actually do have a neck. Stupid hair+shadows. — I swear, I actually do have a neck. Stupid hair+shadows.

While I doubt I’ll sew this pattern again as is, I would consider doing it in a different fabric, perhaps with a boat neck? Who knows. I’ve got some exciting stuff coming up, so please don’t get board with me based on the quality of this post! Happy sewing 🙂

The Nightmare Dress (Butterick 6089)

October 26, 2015October 26, 2015 by Ashley ♥ 4 Comments

Do you remember the Nightmare Coat? It was my very first post, so probably not. The nightmare coat earned it’s name based on that fucking headache-inducing fabric. The nightmare dress is made of something very similar, just thinner. It’s a thin wool houndstooth, from Joann’s sometime last year. It also has the same tendency to fray and drive me insane.

I had originally made this dress with a longer hem line and 3/4 sleeves, so that I could wear it work without a cardigan. When I say originally, I mean last Christmas, when I started this one (I’ve been on a serious finishing ufo’s kick). To be honest, it looked a kinda dowdy that way. A little Laura Ingalls Wilder, ya know? To top it off, the fabric seemed to fray every time I looked at it, even though I’d stitched and serged everything? I need some tips on dealing with this tricky fabric!

Forward to a few weeks ago, when I decided to dust it off (literally) and fix it. I chopped the sleeves off and raised the hem above the knee, then just turned under and hemmed. In honesty, I have no idea where the pattern is or what size I cut. I do remember assembling the bodice and skirt per the pattern instructions. Last winter I was a good bit thinner than I am now, and it shows in this dress. Check out the pleats in the picture below to see what I’m talking about.

I kinda like this dress as is, I just would make it a bit looser, fix the arm scythe, and use a different fabric. I love the red and black, it gives it a sort of 90’s punk rock look, which I am all about. But this fabric…ugh. Never again. NEVER!!!

I don't give a fuck what you think. — I don’t give a fuck what you think.

All of that said, I will wear this dress until it falls apart. I wear every single garment I’ve ever made, even the fails. I took my time and effort to make something out of a flat sheet of fabric, and that’s damn impressive. I am proud of each project, truly. If you don’t like what I make or feel I could have made it better, you don’t have to look at it. That’s how it works. I have found the online sewing community to be extremely warm and welcoming overall, I love talking to you all and seeing all the wonderful things you’ve made. I like discussing techniques and laughing at errors with you. But for the minority of you who just choose to be kind of shitty, might I suggest you fuck off?

The 30th Birthday Dress (Butterick 5882/Gertie Shelf Bust Dress)

July 27, 2015July 29, 2015 by Ashley ♥ 3 Comments

I made my deadline, and completed Butterick 5882 on Saturday, moments before walking out the door! If I’m being honest…I’m still not completely pleased with the dress, but…it’s my birthday so I’m giving myself a pass 😉

I made some alterations to this pattern. I added my usual pockets, and I changed the bodice. I lowered the boned portion and curved it along the bust. If I could do it again, I would lower it a full two more inches, it STILL sat too high for my taste. I really wanted something that sat under my bust, where the underwire of a bra hits. I also altered the cups, to compensate for lowering the shelf, by adding two more rows of pleats. For me, the cups go too far up toward my shoulders, I would change that a bit if I made this garment again. I cut a size 12, and it was just a bit too big. In the future, I would cut a 10. This is a Gertie pattern, and for some reason I ALWAYS have fit issues with her patterns :/

The main fabric is also from Gertie’s collection, with the bodice cups and straps just being a black quilting cotton. I lined it with some kind of polyester “lining” fabric, this dress uses a ton of fabric, so I felt like using cotton lining would make it just too heavy. The fabrics were a dream to sew, and the lining felt amazing on the skin, staying cool even in the muggy Ohio summer.

I dunno why I can't stand up straight like a normal person. — I dunno why I can’t stand up straight like a normal person.

I did an invisible zip, because those give me the least amount of trouble! All of my seams were serged, with the hem just being serged and turned up. All and all, the dress is far from perfect but it worked for the occasion! Definite party dress vibes! Happy sewing 🙂

Panic Time

July 15, 2015 by Ashley ♥ 4 Comments

Today it’s officially just ten short days until my birthday celebration…and I haven’t even cut my pattern yet. Also I plan to heavily modify this bodice. My apologies if I’m not as active in the coming days, I need to do some serious sewing! Cross your fingers and hope I’m not totally fucked 😳

The Mom Jeans (Butterick 5895)

June 15, 2015 by Ashley ♥ 5 Comments

Sometimes in sewing, shit just does not work out the way you planned. Sometimes you accidentally make mom jeans. I should point out that this is not really the fault of the pattern, in this case, rather just the fault of some lazy, lazy sewing.

I was blessed with a naturally hourglass figure, and some longer than normal (for my height) legs. However…I have an absurdly short abdomen. And no shoulders. It’s weird. When making high waisted items, it would be smart to take that into consideration, wouldn’t it? I did not do that. I just went full steam ahead, cutting and sewing a straight 12. I am such a smart girl sometimes!!!

Even I don't have an excuse for me — Even I don’t have an excuse for me

This is Butterick b5895, a Gertie pattern, and as such has tons of reviews. Most of these reviews are good, so…this was a sewists error. I had also intended to make the crop top that goes along with these pants, but honestly, I just lost interest in this pattern. Perhaps one day I’ll pull this out again and revamp it? For now…I move onto my maxi dress . Don’t let that discourage you from giving this a go, though. They actually came together crazy fast and the instructions were way easy to follow. Go on with your normal-sized abdomen and make some adorable capris! Happy sewing 🙂

The Anchor Dress

April 24, 2015April 24, 2015 by Ashley ♥ 6 Comments

At it again with the killer posing. I swear I don’t have that many wrinkles!!

So I know this is a super old pattern, but…I still think you should make this dress immediately. It’s the Butterick B5317 by Maggy London and it’s fantastic. The dress features six fairly large pleats, right underneath the bust, which makes it very flattering. The pattern calls for a side zip, but as I made mine in a knit, I omitted the zipper. However, I did notice that the bodice darts were a bit too pronounced, so perhaps such a sturdy knit was not the best fabric choice? The pictures don’t do the bust any justice, though, I’m the worst at pictures. Also, I ended up taking the straps up a few inches, and the bodice in a bit. Honestly, I have nearly constant strap issues. At this point, I’ve planned for it. By pattern sizing, I should have made a 14, but I scaled down to a 12. I think I could have done a 10.

Awkward ankles, weird shadows, and unfinished shoulder seams.

I opted out of doing a contrast fabric, frankly, I just didn’t have one and there are NO fabric stores where I work or where I live. It’s only a thirty minute drive to Joann, but still…no time. Also, since I didn’t do a contrast band on the bottom, I decided to try out a rolled hem. ROLLED HEMS ARE THE BEST!! Once I figured out how to set up my trusty serger for this, it was beyond easy. I usually serge all my seams, so I’ve come to expect setup difficulties, but here there were none! Success on the first try!

All and all, this dress came together in about three evenings, from start to finish. Around six hours, I think, including fit issues. I’ll actually get some wear out of it, and truly, the fit isn’t that bad. Also, shout out to Etsy and my momma for my awesome Harry Potter locket 🙂

Happy sewing!

Sew Christmas

December 26, 2014 by Ashley ♥ 4 Comments

I hope you all had a a killer Christmas! Santa was very kind to us here in Ohio.

I have been dreaming of a serger of my very own since I got to use That’s Sew Amy’s, to say that I’m pumped is to make a gross understatement. My momma was wise and kind enough to get me a selection of thread cones in all my favorite shades, in addition to my lovely Brother 1034d machine. The Joann gift card from my aunt doesn’t hurt, either. And how cute is that clock!?!

And we’re ready to sew some seams! Unfortunately, Albus Severus isn’t such a big fan of this plan, as per the usual.

Since the boy is demanding walks and cuddles, it seems unlikely I’ll have a finished garment to post today. However, I think I’ve maybe, possibly, perhaps picked my next project. I imagine I’ll change my mind, though, seems like I always do. Does anyone else have this problem??? I just want to make everything, right now. For now, though, this will be the next garment.

Happy sewing, everyone!! My apologies for the rambling post.

Nightmare coat (Space Invaders coat)

December 15, 2014 by Ashley ♥ 15 Comments

So, not to start this first post off on a bad note, but…fuck this fabric. The pattern, Butterick B5686 is not so bad (the different cup sizes kinda threw me a bit). This coat earned it’s nickname, Nightmare Coat, based entirely on this extra fraying houndstooth fabric. I swear, if you look at it, it frays.

The pattern itself was fairly easy to use. That said, the instructions do have you combining the lining and the outer shell before they’re actually complete. I find this to be excessively bulky and complicated, so I assembled both separately and then combined. I also added an two extra inches in the sleeves, because I have super long arms. That may not be necessary for others! Only two of the buttons are functional, but I think if I ever made this again, I’d do all four. It needs it. For the lining, I used a flannel backed satin, which feels like heaven but is a bit slippery to sew!!

All and all, I really do like this coat. I love a houndstooth print, and it is warm and cozy. I made view C, so it’s nice, long, and elegant looking. Just…if you use this fabric, know it’s a bitch!! I would suggest maybe surging each piece right after you sew it, perhaps, just to prevent fraying. Be aware that you won’t use all pieces of the pattern, because of the variable cup sizing, that can get a little confusing when you’re sewing!!! And yes, I know, I didn’t do the greatest job matching the fabric print, but it’s my first coat, I’m still pretty happy with it!! Now for gratuitous coat photos!