Fabulous Fall (McCall’s 6754)

September 17, 2015September 17, 2015 by Ashley ♥ 9 Comments

I really can't make any more posing excusing. — I really can’t make any more posing excusing.

McCall’s 6754 is my go to pattern. I think I’ve made it at least 7 times. This is a knit pattern, but I’ve made it in everything from quilting cotton to some weird poly-crepe type fabric. I’ve made it sleeveless and raglan. I’ve added pockets, zippers. I added horsehair braid once. It’s such an easy pattern, and who doesn’t love a good circle skirt!?!

I purchased this fabric last year (yay for destashing!), and have been struggling on what to do with it. I love that it’s reversible, but couldn’t think of a way to showcase that. Finally, I decided fuck it. The fabric is soft and cozy and perfect for a fall dress. Wearing this dress feels like being wrapped in the softest blanket, it takes “secret pajamas” to another level.

I like that dress, but it would look better on my floor.

The very best part of this dress is that it was sewn up after work on Tuesday. Fabric cutting included, it took about 3 hours. It’s crazy fast and easy. I do, however, wonder about darts on the raglan sleeves. It’s a knit, why have a dart on the sleeve? Any ideas? Other than the darts and finishing, I did all the sewing on my serger. Originally, I had intended to do bands at the sleeves and hem, in the stripes also, but I ran out of energy. The pattern doesn’t call for bands, just fold and stitch, but I really like the look and stability of it. I would suggest sizing down. This fabric tends to “grow” as you wear it, so I think could have even gone down one more size! It is very easy to edit along the way, so if you cut it a bit too large, no worries. I’ve sewn this so many times, I disregarded the instructions. I believe it calls for elastic at the waist in all versions, though. I don’t add it. I don’t think it needs it and I just don’t like the look. But if you do, go for it! It’s an easy add.

Aaaaaaaaaaaand I'm dizzy. — Aaaaaaaaaaaand I’m dizzy.

This is my last make for the Sew Long Summer Sew Along!! I hope you’ve all enjoyed it. Happy sewing 🙂

Holidaze (Colette Crepe/Colette 1013)

September 10, 2015 by Ashley ♥ 8 Comments

So here’s the thing…I really need to cut my bangs. I thought I would grow them out, but I won’t. Please look past the bangs. Also, I was very fidgety for these photos, so excuse the blur, okay? I’m tryin’ here, photos are not my favorite.

This is the Colette Crepe, and my Holidaze post for the Sew Long Summer Sew Along. I know the fabric is floral, but to me it looks like fireworks. Labor Day holiday + firework print=Holidaze, yes? This fabric was purchased at Joann’s 283238473 years ago, from the clearance section. It’s cotton, but lighter and more sheer than cotton lawn. Mystery fabric.

I can't deal with my own face right now. — I can’t deal with my own face right now.

While the pattern calls for facings, I opted to fully line it instead. I fucking hate facings. Facings are the worst. Plus, this fabric is practically translucent, so a full lining was really the only option. While this definitely makes for a better dress, it does take a lot of fabric. I’m guessing between 7-8 yards, maybe. I ran out. The filler pieces on the lining are black quilting cotton.

I’ve got a very Amelia Pond-esque crack in my wall.

To line it, I just cut double the amount of each piece, except the tie straps, obviously. The shoulders and sides of the bodice and lining were sewn together. I stitched lining and bodice together at the back and neckline, with the straps sandwiched between the two. For the arms, i just serged and folded the seams under. I sandwiched (word of the day?) the bodice inbetween the skirt and skirt lining, to get a nice clean finish at the waist. Make sense? Probably not, that’s a terrible explanation. I hope you get the idea! Other than the lining, I followed the instructions.

I cut a size 8 of version two, because I love a fancy neckline. I have to say, the neckline is a little high for me, I am not exactly known for dressing conservatively. I liked the fit, and of course a wrap dress gives you some wiggle room. I will probably end up cutting some length off, it’s just not flattering on someone of my height and proportions. I think slightly above the knee would be more flattering. This was so easy to sew!! If you know anyone who’s interested in learning to sew, this would be a fantastic starter pattern. I’m even going to attempt to make another version, in a Doctor Who print, in one evening. Wish me luck! Happy sewing 🙂

Never Ending Summer (McCall’s 6696)

September 2, 2015December 21, 2015 by Ashley ♥ 2 Comments

We’re in week two! I’ve changed my mind a few times on some of my projects for this sewalong, but this week was always going to be the McCall’s shirtdress. I’ve read about it on so many blogs, so many people are in love with it…and I just feel “enh” about it.

I’m trying to copy that shrugging guy people are always typing.

I had always intended to make this dress in this fabric. I love this print, but the colors just aren’t really me. But hey, shirt dress, seems appropriate, yes? That bit turned out well, at least. I should have given more thought to doing stripe matching with pleats on the bottom and darts on the top. Whoops. On the cutting table, I realized that I’d have to do view C, the more fitted skirt. Not my favorite look, but the darts (and print) lined up perfectly. Worth it. When it comes to the back…stripe matching with pleats and gathers, not so much. And that yoke…I don’t know what happened there. But…rtw clothes have terrible print matching, right? It’s totally not even that noticeable?? Right? RIGHT!?!?

While we’re talking about gathers…I feel like this dress needs more. In hindsight, I do remember another sewing blogger saying that she added more to her version. Look, I know what you’re thinking here. “But Ashley, didn’t you make a muslin??” No, no I did not. This fabric was purchased about two years ago (yay for de-stashing), for about $4 a yard. With fashion fabric that cheap, this basically is the wearable muslin.

Another fun thing was when I managed to lose my buttonhole foot before making a shirt dress. Real smooth. Luckily enough, I had just purchased some crazy cheap pearl snaps. Being honest…the first few snaps didn’t come out so great. After a few and some wine, I’m pretty proud of my work. The neighbors probably didn’t enjoy the 9pm hammering, though.

For the collar, I followed Grainline’s collar sewing method. Easy peasy. With the yoke, I used the burrito method, my favorite yoke sewing method. I’m tellin ya, you’ve never seen a more beautifully finished yoke. Burrito method, almost impossible to fuck up but looks so professional. The rest of the sewing is fairly straightforward. I cut a 10, but really should have done a 12. It’s a bit too snug for my liking, but I’d also like to lose this 10 pounds I found somewhere, so…yeah. I used self made bias tape on the arms, and also did a small dart on each, to get them to lay a bit flatter.

I also somehow lost the pocket pattern pieces, so mine are self drafted. I totally intended to get pictures of said pockets and details, up close. I forgot, again. I am the worst at details and I apologize. I promise to improve, eventually. All and all, I like this pattern. I will for sure be making an improved version of this soon. Happy sewing! 🙂

Summer Crush (Sewaholic Lonsdale/Sewaholic 1102)

August 28, 2015August 28, 2015 by Ashley ♥ 11 Comments

I hope you’re all enjoying the Sew Long Summer sewalong!! I know I’ve been having a blast with it. All summer long, I’ve been crushing on and dreaming about this Cotton & Steel fabric. Originally, I had intended to sew up a Burda sunsuit with it, but I’m just not convinced I’ll ever wear it. Enter the Sewaholic Lonsdale dress, which just kinda screamed summer to me.

If you’ve never sewn an indie pattern, I highly suggest you do. The instructions are so much clearer, and fitting issues are minimal. Tasia also has a VERY easy to follow step by step sewalong posted online, so if the instructions ever do trip you up, shes got your back! You can’t go wrong, I’m tellin’ ya.

For this dress, I cut a straight 12, and it’s a pretty good fit. I could stand to take the bodice in a bit, but I fear that would make it too tight. The fabric is a cotton lawn, so there’s absolutely no stretch here. I will warn you, the Lonsdale is a fabric hog. I used a full 4 yards on this one, and that’s with some creative pattern placement. Those cute tie straps connect to the bodice, and they are LONG. Also, the bodice is fully lined, so you need 4 of those suckers. It’s part of what makes the dress so lovely, just make sure you plan for it! A non-sewing related qualm, it’s either a strapless bra or no bra for this one. I hate a strapless bra with a passion usually reserved for telemarketers, so…I felt you deserved a warning.

To sing Tasia’s praises one more time, she understands not wanting to hand stitch. Hand stitching is the worst. It takes forever. My man-sized hands are not made for it. DOWN WITH HAND STITCHING. For the waistband, you have the option of hand sewing it to the skirt, or stitching it “in the ditch”. I, of course, opted to stitch in the ditch, and it looks just fine. It’s also worth noting, this entire dress was sewn with grey thread. The base of this fabric is kind of an odd green color, and I just didn’t have a color to match. Grey thread is a bit magical, it just somehow manages to blend in with everything. It’s a beautiful thing.

I’m really looking forward to seeing what you’re all making!! Happy sewing 🙂

The Dog Dress (Colette Lily/Colette 1020)

August 18, 2015August 18, 2015 by Ashley ♥ 11 Comments

Before I launch into anything about the sewing, I need to talk about my love for Colette. Originally, I ordered this pattern because it was on sale, and it was called the Lily, just like my main bitch, Lily Rose. Now, as many of you don’t at all know, I am bit old school and set in my ways. I prefer books to ebooks (down with ebooks!), and paper patterns to PDF. Yeah, I know PDF patterns are better and yada yada yada, I get it. But…I love a physical copy in all it’s beautiful packaging glory. Colette has the best, prettiest paper patterns. Period. Ever. The instructions are bound like a book (instead of an unwieldy giant sheet), there’s a section for notes, and the actual pattern just slips into a little section in the back. It’s like they were designed just for me! Did you also know that Colette donates part of their proceeds to animal rescue? BECAUSE THEY TOTALLY DO! If you’re not following me on Instagram, you may not realize I foster doggies. Anyone who helps dogs is automatically a winner in my book. Also, Colette posted something of their Instagram about leadership as an introvert. I THINK MY SOUL MATE IS A PATTERN COMPANY!

Okay, love fest over. This is the Lily dress, which I had intended to finish last month, as it was the pattern of the month. But…best intentions of mice and men…

I know, I'm the best at posing. — I know, I’m the best at posing.

I really liked this pattern (obviously), the instructions were very easy to follow, and the construction was straight forward. I was a little unsure of myself when it came to sewing the bodice facing around the invisible zip. But I just read the instructions through a few times, it came together just fine. There’s also a tutorial online of how to install an invisible zip, if you’ve not done it before 😉 I made this in polyester satin, with the cherry pieces actually being bits of a polyester scarf. I’ve really been trying to sew through my stash, so I’ve been just kind of making materials work with any given project. The recommended materials are a bit sturdier than what I used, so I added extra interfacing in the straps, pockets, and bodice flap thing, just to make sure it wasn’t too floppy. I cut a straight 14, but after fitting, I took the bodice in 1 & 1/4 inches, because I like a snug bodice fit. I probably could have done the same for the skirt, but I didn’t mind the extra room there. The hem is finished with self made cherry bias binding. Although I like the way the dress is to be hemmed according to the pattern, I don’t think a machine stitched hem looks great in satin. I fucking hate hand stitching, so bias binding it is. The extra cherry accent seems to work, so it’s a win!

Half my pictures are of me trying to show the hem.

I really dig the vintage feel of this dress. I had a lot of fun sewing it, and I truly think I’ll get a lot of wear out of it. Have you sewn the Lily? Did you love it too?

The 30th Birthday Dress (Butterick 5882/Gertie Shelf Bust Dress)

July 27, 2015July 29, 2015 by Ashley ♥ 3 Comments

I made my deadline, and completed Butterick 5882 on Saturday, moments before walking out the door! If I’m being honest…I’m still not completely pleased with the dress, but…it’s my birthday so I’m giving myself a pass 😉

I made some alterations to this pattern. I added my usual pockets, and I changed the bodice. I lowered the boned portion and curved it along the bust. If I could do it again, I would lower it a full two more inches, it STILL sat too high for my taste. I really wanted something that sat under my bust, where the underwire of a bra hits. I also altered the cups, to compensate for lowering the shelf, by adding two more rows of pleats. For me, the cups go too far up toward my shoulders, I would change that a bit if I made this garment again. I cut a size 12, and it was just a bit too big. In the future, I would cut a 10. This is a Gertie pattern, and for some reason I ALWAYS have fit issues with her patterns :/

The main fabric is also from Gertie’s collection, with the bodice cups and straps just being a black quilting cotton. I lined it with some kind of polyester “lining” fabric, this dress uses a ton of fabric, so I felt like using cotton lining would make it just too heavy. The fabrics were a dream to sew, and the lining felt amazing on the skin, staying cool even in the muggy Ohio summer.

I dunno why I can't stand up straight like a normal person. — I dunno why I can’t stand up straight like a normal person.

I did an invisible zip, because those give me the least amount of trouble! All of my seams were serged, with the hem just being serged and turned up. All and all, the dress is far from perfect but it worked for the occasion! Definite party dress vibes! Happy sewing 🙂

McCall’s 7119, Part Two

July 23, 2015July 23, 2015 by Ashley ♥ 4 Comments

Hello all!!! I’m putting the finishing touches on my birthday dress, it looks like I’ll make the deadline! In the meantime, I wanted to share the second dress I made for maxi dress sew along. It is basically the same version of McCall’s 7119 that I made for myself, with some minor changes.

My friend Amanda lives in Maryland, so there was no opportunity for fitting before I made this. Since it’s a wrap dress, the fit is pretty forgiving, but I do wish I could fix the way it sticks out near her shoulder. For her version, I added about 6 inches to length, because she is an Amazon, that lucky girl! I also used a knit for this dress, instead of the woven that the pattern calls for. Having made this pattern before, I wasn’t too worried about any problems there, though it is probably causing the bodice issue.

To finish the hem, I just did a rolled hem with my serger. It’s a casual dress and I just like the girl touch it gives it. Plus…I fucking hate doing hems. I did try somewhat to match the stripes, but I didn’t agonize over it. Overall, I’m happy with it. Bring it with you next time you come in, Amanda, I’ll fix your bodice! Happy sewing 🙂

Panic Time

July 15, 2015 by Ashley ♥ 4 Comments

Today it’s officially just ten short days until my birthday celebration…and I haven’t even cut my pattern yet. Also I plan to heavily modify this bodice. My apologies if I’m not as active in the coming days, I need to do some serious sewing! Cross your fingers and hope I’m not totally fucked 😳

The Tulip Dress (McCall’s 6956)

July 13, 2015July 13, 2015 by Ashley ♥ 24 Comments

Have you ever had a dress that looks great in the mirror, but in pictures, makes you look like a lumpy ham? That is this dress for me. I swear, I thought it was flattering. Whatever, I’m still going to wear the hell out of it anyway!!

The pattern is McCall’s 6956, and the fabric is some random Robert Kaufman tulip quilting cotton I’ve had for ages. I opted for version B of the pattern, with the a/b cup sizing. I love a good strapless dress, but I hate pulling up my dress all night. Since this dress has tons of boning, you actually DON’T have to do that, it kinda stays up on it’s own. I added cups, just for extra stability, and I also added some ruching to the bodice, just to help adjust the fitting a bit. Other than that, it pretty much fit straight out of the package.

Top is fully lined, while the skirt is unlined. With that, boning, and the heavier weight cotton, the dress still felt cool and comfortable, even in yesterday’s heat. The boning gave me a bit of grief, but that could have just been me misinterpreting the instructions. As I understood them, the boning was to extend past the pleating, which was a headache. I decided to just end it at the pleating, and from there it was smooth sailing. I left off the bottom band on the skirt, only because it made no sense with my fabric pattern.

This is where I almost fell down. Smooth.

Honestly, I love a well fitted dress and I think I’ll wear this one quite a bit, even if it has reminded me to lose 20 pounds 😉 It’s such a fun party dress! I hope all your summer sewing is going well, happy sewing 🙂

The Maxi Sewalong Dress (McCall’s 7119)

July 6, 2015July 6, 2015 by Ashley ♥ 3 Comments

I can't explain all the weird faces in this post. — I can’t explain all the weird faces in this post.

I hope everyone had a fabulous July fourth!!! I got to enjoy mine with a few friends and some beers. And my maxi dress challenge wrap dress! The pattern is McCall’s 7119 and it was an absolute breeze to sew.

Since I was out with friends and enjoying some adult beverages, my picture quality is a little lacking, for that I apologize. I’m not sure what happened to my hair, either, because I swear I started out the day with cute, curly hair.

Cute hair selfies from earlier in the day.

Back to the dress. I used a mystery fabric from a Joann clearance sale. I think based on the way it wrinkles and a burn test, it’s a cotton or cotton blend? No stretch at all, though I did make a knit version for my friend Amanda, which is coming to the blog soon! I sized the pattern down and cut a 10, and the fit is pretty perfect. I added Saltspring pockets, because always pockets. Turns out, Lladybird uses the same trick, glad I’m not the only one who is pro-additional pockets. I also added two inches to the length, which works out great with wedges. This is a true wrap dress, so…beware of strong breezes and make sure you wear full underwear, if you want to avoid a wardrobe malfunction!

I really, really love the way this bodice fits. The cut is absolutely perfect, and once tied properly, it fits well and stays in place. The pattern instructions were clear and simple, I actually followed them, for once. Though it is a full length dress, it’s comfortable and cool, even on a hot summer day. It’s also a pretty quick sew, which I clearly love. If I had time, I would for sure sew the shorter version of this, but I have 283749387 planned to sew currently 🙁 If you haven’t selected a maxi dress pattern yet, I’d recommend this one. It really lives up to it’s “easy” label.

I have one last picture for you, which I present to you without comment…as there are no words for what my friends are wearing. Sometimes, it’s just fun to let loose and be ridiculous 😉 Happy sewing! 🙂