The Dog Hair Coat (Sewaholic Minoru)

December 12, 2016December 12, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 6 Comments

I try to make a coat every year, but this year, I was really stumped as to which one to make. Originally, I’d planned to make the Quart coat from Pauline Alice, but I procrastinated buying wool until it was far too late. One of my least favorite thing about living in Cincinnati is the severe lack of fabric shops. We have Joann’s, quite a few quilting stores, and a few small fabric stores that sell apparel fabric (looking at you, Fiberge), but ZERO big, quality fabric stores. As far as I know, there’s not a single place to buy wool coating in the area! I mean what the fuck, Cincinnati.

So with fabric needs in mind, I settled on the Sewaholic Minoru. My dear friend Amy of That’s Sew Amy made one awhile back, and it’s awesome. I love that it’s really a good daily wear coat, unlike my houndstooth coat. It also doesn’t hurt that Tasia posted a killer step by step sewalong. While my coat is far from perfect, it’s the most professional looking garment I’ve ever made, and that’s 100% thanks to the sewalong.

I accidentally bought a double zip and felt like you needed to see it. — I accidentally bought a double zip and felt like you needed to see it in action.

I knew I wanted my Minoru to be more of a coat than a jacket, so to make it warmer, I interlined it with snuggle flannel from my stash. I hate snuggle flannel, but it’s warm, so hiding it in inside my coat seemed perfect. I followed Tasia’s recommendation and basted it to my lining fabric. Snuggle flannel is printed on one side and white on the back, so I basted them wrong side to wrong side, as I was afraid the flannel print would show through. If you’d like to see progress shots of that kind of thing, I tend to post it on Instagram. For my main fabric, I used a black twill, with no stretch. All of these fabrics came from Joann, and I can’t find a single one on their website. Sorry! I can tell you the lining is part of their “silky prints” collection, and I swear I’ve seen it there recently.

I made very few changes to the pattern, other than the interlining. I opted to do pearl snaps instead of velcro on the inner pockets, because that’s what I had on hand. Like many others, I also added side seam pockets, because a coat without outer pockets is just silly. I also sized down quite a bit. According to the size chart, I should have cut a size 12, but I went with an 8 instead. I tried on Amy’s jacket in a size 4, it’s zipped but was a bit too snug, so I took a gamble and cut a straight 8. Everyone knows I love close fitting garments. You guys…I didn’t have to add ANY length to the arms. That is unheard of! I think the fit is really good, though I wish I’d shortened the waist a bit. The waist elastic is just a little too low. As mentioned above, I also added a double zip. Totally unintentional, that’s just what I accidentally bought so of course I used it.

Overall, I’m really stoked on this coat. That said…the twill attracts dog hair like nothing else. While it doesn’t wrinkle nearly as badly as I expected, it does look wrinkled in these photos. I’d worn it a few times since finishing it, and it could really do with a good pressing. Whatever, it’s a great coat, I’m even wearing it right now. I’m running out of things to say, but I still have more photos for you guys, so prepare for a boat load of photos below. I do realize Tonks is much much prettier than me or my coat, so feel free to be distracted by her! Happy sewing 🙂

Collar tucked into the hood pocket here, looking super bitchy again.

A Palette Cleanser (Jennifer Lauren Handmade Gable Top)

December 5, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 3 Comments

After a difficult project, I always find myself craving an easy project. My denim jacket took forever, so I definitely wanted an easy success! I decided on the the Gable Top from Jennifer Lauren Handmade, as I’ve made it before, I know it to be quick and easy pattern.

I opted to use a discontinued cameo print thermal knit from Girl Charlee. I bought the fabric last year during their huge holiday sale, and have been unsure about what to do with it ever since. The fabric doesn’t have the stretch I need for the pattern, so I sized up from a 12 to a 14. That’s the only alteration I made! I honestly don’t have much to say about this make, I believe I said almost everything in my last post.

I made the long sleeve version this time, because duh, thermal. The instructions tell you to do the sleeve a bit differently, but I treated it just like the short sleeved version. Next time, I’ll add about 2″ to the sleeves, they are way too short for my long arms!! I think I would also taper them in a bit at the end, just for personal preference. I like a fitted sleeve. Other than that, the fit seems actually pretty good for me. I’m standing weird in the back view photo below, I don’t think it typically gathers as much in the back. I really, REALLY hate back view photos, you guys. I keep trying to stand different ways to look less weird and nothing works. Blargh. Photo dump below, happy sewing 🙂

The Jacket that Didn’t Want to Be (Butterick 6390)

November 23, 2016November 23, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 6 Comments

I have always wanted a jean jacket, one that actually fit my spaghetti arms. This pattern, Butterick 6390 was the perfect candidate for me, cropped and feminine, but with all the details I love so much. Gertie’s version have her signature vintage flair, but I opted for something a little more traditional.

The main fabric is a denim from Joann’s, unfortunately I’m not sure which one! I do know it has 2% stretch, though. Originally, I’d purchased the yardage to make a test pair of Ginger jeans, but you know…new patterns are fun. Plus jeans are scary as shit! For the lining, I opted to use this mammoth flannel from Robert Kaufman. The patterns calls for a lighter weight, silkier fabrics, but I wanted this to be warm and cozy!

I woke up early to take these and it shows. So cranky.

I’m going to be honest, this fucking jacket fought me every step of the way. In the beginning, my machine struggled with top stitching thread. I used a good quality Gutermann, thankfully I adjusted the tension (to 7) and got past that. Then, as per the usual, I struggled with the sleeve opening and cuff. I’ve never done a cuffed sleeve without a placket, my brain just couldn’t comprehend it. I had to walk away. Fast forward to attaching the waistband…my walking foot broke. You should know that I sew everything with the walking foot, I can’t remember the last time I used the “j” foot. Believe me when I tell you, I was distraught. I cried, I cursed, I threw things. I finished the waistband kind of shittily with unevenly fed layers. OH WELL MAN.

You just have to persevere, right? Now, I must admit, my machine made a mockery of the buttonholes, and I didn’t even care. They exist, they serve their purpose, that’s about all I’m asking for right now. I wanted to wear this thing to Thanksgiving, show off my sweet patches. Which are the Browncoats symbol from Firefly, the Doctor Who logo circa 9, and the Deathly Hallows symbol from Harry Potter, btw. I have a Torchwood patch somewhere, but I couldn’t find it. Bummer, I know.

Despite all this bitching and all the issues, I’m happy with end result. All the seams are flat felled seams, which always makes me happy. The pattern calls for top stitching on both sides of the seams, but I only did the one. I also used a coordinating thread color, because I was afraid my top stitching would be shit. I almost wish I hadn’t, though, because my stitching is actually pretty good! Other than dual top stitching, I also changed up the pattern by using jean buttons instead of regular buttons. I like hammering things, plus I like the look they give the jacket. I need to add them to the pockets, but I ran out. Beyond that, the only change I made was to size up to a straight 16. Based on measurements, I should have sewn a 12, but I wanted room to wear a hoodie or sweater underneath. I hope I didn’t scare you off, it really is a pattern worth sewing! Happy sewing 🙂

Alix Dress Pattern Tester (By Hand London Alix Dress)

October 22, 2016October 24, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 2 Comments

Sewing time has been very limited for me as of late, but I always make time to test for my favorite pattern companies. When By Hand London, sent over their Alix Dress, I was super stoked to cut into it! Alix comes in three lengths (tunic top, minidress, and maxi), I opted for the maxi length. Generally, I do believe shorter is better, but a can wear a maxi length dress to work without have to put on tights! For me, that’s just fucking fantastic.

Really showing off my Dumbledore nose here.

Alix is definitely a style departure for me. She has a definite 70’s feel, with billowy sleeves and a flowing skirt. The sleeves and flowing skirt are so comfortable, though. The bodice is lowcut, but not too lowcut, just enough. There are no zippers or buttons here, the wast ties give it shape. It still feels so elegant though! We’re talking next level secret pajamas here.

One strand of uncurled hair, as per the usual

I followed the pattern almost exactly, cutting a US size 10 (UK 14), and adding my standard 2″ to the sleeves. Oh and pockets, of course I added inseam pockets. I used black poly peachskin from Joann’s, which is not exactly the ideal fabric for this. Head to toe poly? Yikes! But it was the only black swishy fabric I could find in the appropriate width (maxi length requires a wider fabric), so I made due. It’s actually not bad for fall, though in the spring and summer, I’d prefer a rayon, perhaps.

I almost wish there was a bit more room in the bust, I will probably add that for my tunic version. Other than that, I have no problems with Alix! The directions were easy to follow and as detailed as always. It’s super comfortable to wear, yet still elegant. I wore mine out last night for a witch-themed charity event, and got so many compliments. Are you planning to sew up an Alix dress? Happy sewing 🙂

Seam Ripping Woes (Colette Rue Tester)

September 6, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 6 Comments

I was pretty stoked to be part of the testing group for the new Colette pattern, so when they sent over Rue, I immediately started thinking of fabric ideas. I really wanted to use something that showed off the curved lines on the bodice. Originally, I planned to do version 2 (with the longer sleeves) in this mammoth flannel from Robert Kaufman, but the thought of that plaid matching made my heart hurt. After browsing my fabric stash on Cora, I settled on this Cotton and Steel print.

Weird claw hand courtesy of my camera remote.

At first glance, I found the instructions for Rue to be a bit daunting, there are 46 (PDF) pages! Not to worry, though, the instructions contain detailed layouts and directions for both versions. WHEW! Rue is fully lined, so do expect to invest a little extra time for construction. Most of the bodice shaping comes from the curved front seam and some small tucks on each side. The front seam curve comes up a bit too high or too low on me, I can’t decide which. I think for the pattern it should be higher, but for my taste, lower? Either way, it needs fixing.

I promise I don't sleep standing up. — I promise I don’t sleep standing up.

I opted to cut the side front pieces on the bias, because I thought it would look cool. The pattern does NOT call for this, so if you do it, keep in mind that bias cut stuff will stretch. This was especially a problem for me, because I had trouble matching up the bodice pieces on my muslin as well, even though that was straight cut. I don’t know why, but they just wouldn’t line up for me! I imagine it’s user error, as it’s ALWAYS user error. This is version 2, the one with the longer sleeves and skirt gathers. I decided to shorten the sleeves last minute and didn’t want to print the pattern all over again. So be warned, these are not the version 1 sleeves. Other than that, I made no alterations. That is, unless you’re thinking of that fucking GIANT weird pleat pucker thing near the neckline. That beauty is courtesy of seam ripper accident. Don’t rush your sewing, folks, just don’t.

I'm still pissed at my seam ripper. — I’m still pissed at my seam ripper.

All and all, Rue came together a lot more quickly than I’d expected, seam ripper destruction and all. This is exactly the kind of thing I’ve been meaning to make for office wear, cute yet still professional. Maybe I can work up the courage to suffer through plaid matching for a longer sleeved version? I’ll have to consult some vodka about it, but it just might happen! Happy sewing 🙂

A Knit Success (Jennifer Lauren Handmade Gable Top)

September 2, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 6 Comments

It’s been awhile since I’ve posted, I know. I’ve been working on a swimsuit, but I’m having some fit issues. I’ve also run out of summer, so you’ll not being seeing that suit until next year. In the meantime, I’ve had an actual success with a knit fabric, which is unheard of. The pattern is the Gable Top from Jennifer Lauren Handmade, which she so graciously provided to me for reviewing. So yes, the pattern was free, but my opinions are still my own.

Not preggo, just standing weird in high waisted jeans. Also, I like snacks.

There are two things I love in a PDF pattern: a nested pattern (patterns that allow you to print only certain sizes) and a very organized PDF file. Jennifer’s is the later. The Gable Top comes with three sleeve options, and in the instructions, she tells you which pages to print for each. No need to print the whole pattern just for the short sleeves. My cutting area is pretty small, so it also helps that I can assemble sections at a time (bodice front, back, sleeves), instead of the entire garment.

The instructions are really straight forward, this would be a great beginner pattern! There’s plenty of information about choosing the right knit fabric, and explanations of the sewing terms. As you know, I fucking hate knits, and I never ever seem to use the right one. Based on her descriptions, I was able to dig DEEP in the stash and pull out this fabric, which turned out to be perfect! I actually used this fabric for this tank, which was old even then. Yay for stash busting!

Assembly went by crazy quickly. I mean wow. I cut a size 12, based on my measurements (37/29/40), and liked the fit. This top has negative ease, so it’s really fitted. If that’s not for you, size up. Originally I’d planned to do the cuffed sleeves, but didn’t have enough fabric, so short sleeves it was. Now, before I’d even started sewing, I knew I was going to insert the sleeves flat, meaning I would sew the sleeves together at the same time as the bodice. If that makes sense. I was very pleasantly surprised to see that’s exactly what the instructions called for! Bravo, Jennifer.

Realized I can turn my camera to the side, using my tripod, was a revelation.

I did most of the construction with my serger, with the exception of hems and finishing the neckline. You don’t have to do that, it’s just my preference. For the sleeves, I just serged the edges and stitched them down with a straight stitch. For the waist, I wanted a little stretch, but I hate a zig zag stitch. I ended up doing a very shallow (I don’t know the correct term here) zig zag stitch, with a stitch height of about 1.5. On the neckline, you just fold it down and stitch. There’s a bit of play there, so try it on and see what you like. As per the pattern, I added a bit of ribbon on the shoulder seems to give it a bit of stability, that’s topstitched down. That’s all there was to it! Easy peasy. I actually wore this out, and no one believed it was handmade, so that’s a win. I can’t believe I’m going to say this, but…I actually plan to make this KNIT top again. Shocking, I know.

The Maxi Dress Sew-Along-My Dress (Simplicity 7484)

August 15, 2016August 16, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 11 Comments

I'm still trying to figure out photos, hush. — I’m still trying to figure out photos, hush.

How are your maxis coming? I wrapped mine up yesterday, and I have to say, I fucking love this dress. I’d say it’s up there in my top 5 favorite makes. I was really unsure about a vintage pattern, as I’ve never sewn one, but I’m really very happy with the results. It feels a bit Mistress of the Dark glam, you know? Right up my alley!

And who doesn't love a backless dress? — And who doesn’t love a backless dress?

The fabric is a black linen (possibly a linen blend, I can’t remember which one I grabbed) from Joann’s, and the pattern is Simplicity 7484, circa 1976. When I was sewing it up, I was worried that the linen would be too heavy, a maxi length wrap skirt does use a lot of fabric, but I think it came out well. It’s not fluttery, but I love the structure it gives. The pattern includes pockets, which is always a win in my book. The pattern also includes a ruffle at the hem, which I omitted. I’m just not a ruffle girl. To compensate, I did add 6 inches to the bottom of the skirt.

This is why I don't smile in pictures, folks. — This is why I don’t smile in pictures, folks.

It was a bit strange, sewing up a backless dress. It twisted my brain up a bit, but I just went slow and worked through it, I think it came out fine. The pattern calls for elastic along the side back of the bodice, which I totally thought was the front. Derp. Makes more sense along the back, right? There’s only one princess seam on the bodice, and I do think I could stand to take that in just a bit. Wrapping tight does help, but nevertheless, it needs fixing.

Blurry yet sassy pose. The humidity struggle is real, kids. The foggy lens are a problem. — Blurry yet sassy pose. The humidity struggle is real, kids. Foggy lens are a problem.

Speaking of wrapping, I had some problems there. This is the fourth wrap dress I’ve made, the others being here, here, and here. So far, all of them have featured a small slit in on side seam, to slide the tie band through. With this pattern, that slit is located on the waistband. I don’t know if I did something wrong here or if it was the pattern, but this slit was WAY too narrow. It took some widening on my part to get the tie band through. It’s a minor thing, but frustrating and worth mentioning anyway. Overall, though, it’s a great pattern. You should make this dress. As far as vintage patterns go, it’s pretty affordable and easy to find. No excuses!

Have you finished your #maxisewalong2016 dress yet? The deadline is fast approaching! I can’t wait to see all your makes. To enter, make sure you either: join the Maxi Sew-Along Group, send me or Amy an email, or tag your photos on social media using the #maxisewalong2016 hashtag. Happy sewing! 🙂

Shorts & Body Issues (Grainline Studio Maritime Shorts)

August 10, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 14 Comments

"Why the fuck did I made shorts!?" — “Why the fuck did I made shorts!?”

Fun fact about me, I almost never wear shorts. By almost never I mean only around the house when the air is out. Why do I avoid shorts, knowing that it’s hotter than Satan’s armpit in Ohio right now? Because I hate my thighs. I hate things clinging to them, I hate their shape, size, everything. Hate ’em. I know this is a terrible attitude to have, but body issues are a real thing and we all have them. I am not immune, by any means. Knowing all this…WHY THE FUCK DID I MAKE SHORTS!?!?!

The truth is, I was hoping they didn’t look as bad as I thought. In reality, they probably don’t. It’s probably not nearly as bad as I think it is. But in my head…blargh. So I’m gonna show you the back view of these shorts anyway…which is a damn miracle. I did snap a picture of the waistband, while I was wearing the shorts. I wanted to show some of the problems I had, but I’m not quite to the point yet where I’m ready for the internet to see my stomach.

Also my hair is being super awful. Humidity is not my friend!

So let’s talk about the sewing. These are the Maritime Shorts from Grainline Studio. I’m calling these a wearable muslin. I have copious amounts of black stretch sateen laying around, so I opted to use that, instead of muslin. The logic behind that being that the tiny bit of stretch in the fabric would cover a few test fit errors. And it did, kinda.

I do think these are a bit snug, I’d probably go up a size next time, but grade in a bit at the waist. The waist fits, but the fabric “grows” with wear. For the waistband and pocket linings, I used a fun tulip print left over from this dress, which I forgot to snap pictures of. Sorry! The stretch in the fashion fabric and lack of stretch in the lining did give my a bit of grief when it came to finishing the waistband. Probably also because I’m a dummy and interfaced the lining fabric instead of sateen, derp. I’m sure if I’d done that right, I wouldn’t be having this problem! The pattern actually comes together pretty easily, but I would suggest following the instructions carefully. I was scratching my head a bit while construction the fly/fly shield. Just have faith, it all comes together smoothly in the end. I do think, if I made them again, I’d add about two inches to the length. Just personal preference, but I like my shorts just a hair longer, and with a deeper hem. Again, that’s just my preference, not a fault in the pattern. If I ever convince myself to wear shorts again, I’d give this pattern another try. But lets not hold our breath for that!!! What about you guys, how do you feel about shorts??

The Maxi Dress Sew-Along-My Pattern

August 9, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 0 Leave a Comment

How’s the sewa-along going for you guys? I’ve already seen a few completed makes, so cute! We’ve got a little over a week left before the end date, August 17th. Seemed like it’s about time for me to announce my pattern choice, right? I must admit, I’ve had a hard time selecting a pattern this year. I told you guys in last week’s post that I’d originally planned to do the Sewaholic Lonsdale, and I still intend to make the maxi version, but I decided to go the vintage route for this…

Big surprise, another wrap dress! My love of cleavage is no secret, and there’s no better way to get that than with a wrap dress. I really did try to avoid it, though! But then Gertie posted an insanely awesome backless vintage pattern dress. Vogue 7375, don’t look for it, you can’t find it. After going deep into the wormhole searching for that pattern, I started stumbling upon vintage backless maxi dress patterns.

How cute are these vintage instructions?

This will be the first vintage pattern I’ve actually made, so cross your fingers for me! My pattern arrived precut, so no debating the tracing/cutting of the pattern. So far, I’m really enjoying the vintage details. The pattern calls for elastic, which I was unsure of originally. But then I realized the elastic goes on the bust edges, to help hold you in. I love that, and there’s no way in hell I would have thought of that myself.

I also love that the seam/cut lines are so clearly marked. Not that I have problems figuring out seam allowances, but it’s still a cute touch. I’ll be sewing this up in a lovely, breezy black linen, without the ruffle. I know black isn’t usually considered a summer color, but I am what I am. Has anyone else decided to go vintage? All the makes I’ve seen so far have been absolutely lovely, can’t wait to see yours! Happy sewing 🙂

The Maxi Dress Sew-Along-Pattern Ideas

August 3, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 1 Comment

The #maxisewalong2016 is in full swing!! How’s everyone doing? Stumped on which pattern to choose? Never fear! Amy and I have scoured the internet for some pattern possibilities, in both knits and wovens. We’ll start with wovens here, because they’re my personal favorite…

I’ve made both of these patterns before, though not the maxi dress versions. In honesty, the Lonsdale was my original pattern choice for this sewalong, until I decide to go vintage. Both patterns are a breeze to sew!

Off the shoulder peasant dresses seem to be in fashion this year, and my favorite pattern maker, By Hand London has a great DIY pattern tutorial. Their Anna dress is always a favorite, and I am in love with this sheer version. Hubba hubba.

McCall’s also came out with some great beginner maxi dress patterns in their summer collection. M7405 and M7404, I’m talkin’ about you. I am such a sucker for a sheer overlay! Let’s not forget about Amy’s favorite, knits…

This one is from our sponsor, 5 Out Of 4 Patterns. For pregnant mommas and nursing mommas, this pattern comes with nursing and maternity options included! Sounds like a win/win situation to me, ladies. And don’t forget, this year, one random participant will win a free pattern from 5 Out Of 4 Patterns!

Patterns for Pirates is a favorite pattern maker of Amy’s and they have several knit maxi options! Above is the sunshine dress, but they also have the boundless dress. Definitely worth checking out!

Closet Case Files also has a very breezy looking jumpsuit/maxi dress pattern, I can’t hate a pattern with pockets already drafted!

What are Amy and I sewing? We’re keeping that under wraps at the moment, but you’ll see soon enough, promise 😉 I hope we gave you some inspiration, I can’t wait to see what all of you make!! Don’t forget to post in the Maxi Sew-Along Group, and to use #Maxisewalong2016 on social media! We don’t want miss anyone! Happy sewing 🙂