This is my second go at the Sewaholic Granville, with more stash fabric. Again from Joann’s, again teal. What can I say, it was a phase. Though I think I recall these being from the same collection, this fabric is definitely a lighter weight, and therefore hangs differently. Blargh.
I don’t know why my pictures are so grainy lately.
The sewing is basically the same as my last Granville, with a few exceptions. Namely, I sewed the side seams at the recommended 5/8″, instead of the 1″ I’d done before. I thought maybe that would help with the gapping at the bust, but alas, it did not. I think that’s just bad snap placement. Or perhaps I should grade out there? Either way, I really don’t like the shape this creates. I think the combo of the fabric change and seam change made for a less flattering top. Fuck it.
The back view is always just me standing weird.
This version was also a good bit rushed, as I wanted to wear it to a concert. That didn’t happen. However, the rushing definitely shows in the finished product. The stitching is a bit wonky, and the collar hasn’t help up to washing. Don’t rush your sewing folks! Does anyone else have a tendency to set arbitrary deadlines and then proceed to stress out about it? It’s so silly!!
Pictured: wonky stitching.
I can say, cutting was not nearly as bad this time. I don’t know if that’s a credit to simpler plaid, having just done this, or both (probably both), but it was a much speedier process. I’m considering doing my next Granville in a knit, so that cutting process should be interesting. Any suggestions??
Does anyone else get bored taking pictures of themselves?
I really can’t think of anything else to add, I think I said it all last time!! I still love this pattern, and will make it again. Happy sewing 🙂
I was super stoked when Elisalex of By Hand London invited me to be a pattern tester. I was even more excited when I realized the pattern was the Sarah Shirt! If you follow me on Instagram, you know I’ve been in a bit of a shirt sewing frenzy. Recently I’ve done three flannels and two shirt dresses, with plans for at least four more in 2016. Perfect timing, ya know?
What up, black bra.
The Sarah shirt is a different than my flannels, for obvious reasons. Designed for soft, lightweight fabrics, it’s flowy and undeniably feminine. The pattern comes in a short sleeve and long sleeve variety, with collar differences. One of my goals for 2016 is to sew more work-appropriate clothing, so I opted for the long sleeve version. Also different, there is no collar stand used in this pattern! Combined with the rounded collar, no-fuss sleeve binding and cuff, the Sarah shirt is much less intimidating for beginner shirt makers.
Cool pleating looks off center, but…it’s not, promise.
Now…the fabric. It’s the Blue Bat Peach Skin from Girl Charlee. I have to admit, this fabric has a lovely hand and feels so luxurious against the skin. That said, I rarely sew with fabrics this lightweight, and man, it was a fucking bitch. It would shift every time I tried to cut it and flail wildly during sewing. Also, it shows pinholes, badly. All of this would probably not be news to someone accustomed to sewing this type of fabric, but I am not that person. At all. I also struggled with the buttonholes. My machine was just not having it, so…snaps it was! The button placket could be a lot smoother, but I’m blaming the button tragedy for that. I also struggled a bit with pressing. Recently, one of my dogs thought it would be cool to chew the plug off my iron. How nice! I’ve been using a very old, possibly antique backup iron while I figure out which iron to buy now. The backup doesn’t have a steam option and it’s a bit harder to get the temperature right, so I’m sure that has plenty to do with it. Iron suggestions are welcome!! Seriously, I have NO IDEA what to get. EDIT: I forgot to mention, I did French seams on this one. Ultra lightweight fabric=French seams, always. Derp.
Side view, always my least favorite.
I cut a UK 10/US 14 as the pattern directed, based on my measurements. As this is a loose fitting top, I’m sure you could cut a smaller size or grade it, for a tighter fit. I made no alterations to the pattern, as I wanted to test it as-is. That said, I should have added length to the arms, and perhaps the bodice. This is a standard alteration for me, and may not be necessary for you. Other than that, the fit was pretty spot on. I really like the look of the front pleats, and it’s so comfortable. I’m already picturing future Sarah shirts! Happy sewing 🙂
How many excuses are you guys willing to accept for poor photography?
I’ve always had a deep love of flannel shirts. Unfortunately, I’ve also always had crazy long Stretch Armstrong arms, and those two things just don’t go together. For some time now, though, I’ve been wanting to make one but have also been super intimidated by it. The plaid matching! The sleeve plackets! The collar! THE FEAR
I also like to put my hands in my sleeves always.
I’ve had a few bits of flannel laying around for awhile, bought for a steal at Joann’s, so long ago that the fabric no longer appears to be available. I think it probably cost me about $3 a yard, so it seemed perfect for a wearable muslin. To do the plaid matching, I cut all my fabric on a single layer. I also cut one piece at a time, going around the body, using the piece I’d just cut to match the other, if that makes sense? Probably not the most efficient way to do things, but it was my plaid virginity and I wanted it to be good, dammit. That said, I did cut the pockets and yoke on a bias. With the seaming on the back, there was no chance of matching, and I just like bias pockets.
Not bad, for my first try at matching.
The pattern is the Sewaholic Granville, and it’s absolutely lovely. Tasia also has a super helpful sewalong on her blog, highly recommend. I cut a 10, which was actually a size down, but I wanted my flannel a little tight. I added two inches to the arms, and none to the body. Fun trick: I didn’t cut one front piece smaller or add a button placket. Instead, I cut both the same size, then pressed and folded the excess over (on the front) to create a placket look. I got the idea from Tasia, mine is a teensy bit different, but the same premise. I promise, it sounds a lot clumsier than it actually is. I omitted interfacing there, as I was using pearl snaps and didn’t think it was necessary. This was also my first try at flat felled seams, I think I’m in love. So clean looking!
Not the best photo, but check out those seams!
Speaking of snaps, I kind of disregarded the pattern instructions from button placement and just used my plaid as a guide. Not the wisest. There’s gaping down the front, and the sleeves need an extra snap to keep it from being way too open. I also could stand to take the shoulders in a bit, they’re too wide and and it looks sloppy. Speaking of sloppy, one of the sleeves is absolutely sewn on backwards. Whoops.
You never realize how much you slouch or how awkwardly you stand until you see yourself from behind.
All and all, I’m pretty stoked on this shirt. I’ve worn it at least six times since I made it, I’m actually wearing it right now! I have another sitting at home waiting for snaps, look for it in the coming weeks. Happy sewing 🙂
You’re going to see pictures from a variety of locations in this post, and that’s going to be confusing. I’m sorry about that, I really tried to get decent pictures. It just didn’t happen. I’m attempting to take blog photos without the aid of my friends, and clearly, there are still a few bugs to work out. Next week will be better, I promise! ANYWAY…
Tada!!! Awkward photography.
The dress is Butterick 6582, and the fabric is an absolutely lovely stretch sateen. I’ve had both in my stash for so long, I can’t remember where they came from or when they were purchased! The pattern calls for light weight fabrics, but I just can’t get on board with the drapey fabrics tight on my midriff. Never going to happen. Based on the reviews, I also lowered the neckline a bit, but I think I should have lowered it even more. With the print, I still think it looks a bit matronly, you know? Not exactly my aesthetic. This pattern also features lovely double pointed darts, which I think are also a bit lost in the print. It was a bad fabric choice, that’s what I’m trying to get at here. Never rush your sewing choices, folks.
Looking for the darts makes my eyes hurt.
For this pattern, I cut a size 12, which is pretty standard for me. I raised the hem about three inches, as I don’t think the longer, intended length is flattering on me. As mentioned, I lowered the neckline, and I must admit, it was a bit unsuccessful. You see, I made this dress for a work Christmas party, and I was rushing to meet the deadline. Again. I didn’t put enough time into getting it just the way I wanted. Between the botched neckline and the stiffer fabric, it has none of the intended drapey-ness. It’s a bummer.
Some pretty serious derps, but check out those shoes, though.
The pattern is fairly easy to put together, as it’s only four pieces plus facings. This was first time sewing double pointed pleats, and I love them. They’re so flattering, even if you can’t tell in any of this pictures!
I swear, I actually do have a neck. Stupid hair+shadows.
While I doubt I’ll sew this pattern again as is, I would consider doing it in a different fabric, perhaps with a boat neck? Who knows. I’ve got some exciting stuff coming up, so please don’t get board with me based on the quality of this post! Happy sewing 🙂
Hope the new year is treating you well! During my long weekend of indolence, I’ve accomplished a little sewing (albeit mostly unpicking), but mostly I did boring housework and lounged about in my pjs. During all this procrastination, I couldn’t help but waste time on Instagram, and of course stalking sewing blogs. In all this digital wandering, I kept coming across the #2016makeNine. Ginger over at Ginger Makes, and Rochelle at Lucky Lucille blogged it, along with others who I can’t seem to name, and it got me wondering, what nine patterns would I pick? My sewing list in constantly changing based on new pattern releases and fun fabric, but here’s where I stand as of January 4, 2016:
Closet Case Files Ginger Jeans-After I conquer my fear of contrast topstitching, I will make these, probably. Hopefully.
Uncomfortable in front of the camera? Play with your hem.
When Melissa from Mahlica Designs contacted me about participating in Blue Dot Patterns creative sewing challenge, I immediately knew I wanted to do the Margo Blouse, but I had no idea what I would do with it. And then I won a free giant tshirt from my favorite local business.
A very large, very wrinkly shirt.
I love the Drink Tavern. It’s like my Cheers. The owners, Doug and Mary, are two of the best people you’ll ever meet. The regular patrons there are like family to me. When I first moved here, these were the people who befriended me. It’s like home. Seriously. It rocks.
I made Doug pose with me at Friendsgiving.
I knew I wanted to use my Drink Tavern shirt, but the Margo pattern is for wovens, not knits. Also the pattern is already a bit more “flowy” than I’d normally wear (what can I say, I like tight clothes), so I sized all the way down to an extra small (according the pattern chart, I should have cut a medium). I also skipped the facings, due to lack of fabric. Given the opportunity, I would have used the facings. For the neckline, I turned and stitched the hem. For the sleeves, I just used the existing sleeve hems. I did a wavy hem on the bottom, because I liked it and it’s easy! I took about an inch out of the shoulders, which is pretty common for me and my stumpy shoulders. You may not have to. I also only used two buttons instead of three, since mine were huge. Looking at it, I could have crammed three.
Doug gets a little sassy.
I just serged the whole thing together, from cutting the fabric to sewing the buttons, the whole project took maybe two hours. Diane’s pattern instructions were very easy to follow, I had no problems assembling the pdf or following the pattern.
I blame the cold for this disgruntled face.
I really can’t think of anything else, this is such a simple and easy pattern! If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Now comes the part where I share some extra photos, as I’m out of commentary. Be sure to check out my fellow sewalong participants listed below, and happy sewing! 🙂
It’s hard to look through all these smiling pictures from weeks ago, when I can’t muster a smile now. I lost a very dear friend, and one of the few people on the earth I’ve ever connected with, on Friday. I won’t go on and on about it, but forgive me if I’m a little morose, okay?
Why do jeans have such tiny pockets??
This is the McCall’s 6844 cardigan pattern, you’ve probably sewn it yourself. It’s been done by everyone, I think. I cut this particular version last year, before I had even started blogging. The fabric is a lovely sequined sweater knit from Joann’s, and unfortunately, they don’t seem to carry it anymore. 🙁 But yay for finishing projects!
Long enough to cover the ghetto booty.
Somewhere along the line, I managed to lose this pattern. So the garment you seen here is the product of cut pattern pieces and what I felt like should happen to them. I serged the bodice portion together, added the lower pieces, scarf-type pieces, and then sleeves. All just serged, no darts or gathers of any kind. I vaguely recall the pattern calling for interfacing, but this didn’t get any. I also have two extra scarf pieces that I did NOTHING with. We’re calling this one a wearable muslin, okay? And, just like before, I have no idea what size I cut.
Awkward Cousin Itt photo
Apparently, when I cut this fabric, I did so with reckless disregard for the strips on the fabric. For the most part, it actually came out pretty okay. In the photo above, you can see where it did not! Also, just like in my previous post, it’s a bit snug. When I make this again, I’ll grade up in the sleeves. Since this is just a muslin, and a knit, I didn’t finish the hem or the sleeves. I kinda dig the way it came out, though!!! Perfect for work, comfortable to wear around the house. Oh!! And check that tank underneath, recognize it? It’s the peplum top I made! I wear the hell out of this thing, definitely my most worn make!
Remember me?
This quick cardigan was definitely worth a make for me. And I get the deeply satisfying feeling of cleaning up old UFO’s in my sewing room! Win win. Pardon the short post, this is all the cheer I could manage. Happy sewing 🙂
Do you remember the Nightmare Coat? It was my very first post, so probably not. The nightmare coat earned it’s name based on that fucking headache-inducing fabric. The nightmare dress is made of something very similar, just thinner. It’s a thin wool houndstooth, from Joann’s sometime last year. It also has the same tendency to fray and drive me insane.
Lol Springsteen butt.
I had originally made this dress with a longer hem line and 3/4 sleeves, so that I could wear it work without a cardigan. When I say originally, I mean last Christmas, when I started this one (I’ve been on a serious finishing ufo’s kick). To be honest, it looked a kinda dowdy that way. A little Laura Ingalls Wilder, ya know? To top it off, the fabric seemed to fray every time I looked at it, even though I’d stitched and serged everything? I need some tips on dealing with this tricky fabric!
Finished!
Forward to a few weeks ago, when I decided to dust it off (literally) and fix it. I chopped the sleeves off and raised the hem above the knee, then just turned under and hemmed. In honesty, I have no idea where the pattern is or what size I cut. I do remember assembling the bodice and skirt per the pattern instructions. Last winter I was a good bit thinner than I am now, and it shows in this dress. Check out the pleats in the picture below to see what I’m talking about.
See the pulling?
I kinda like this dress as is, I just would make it a bit looser, fix the arm scythe, and use a different fabric. I love the red and black, it gives it a sort of 90’s punk rock look, which I am all about. But this fabric…ugh. Never again. NEVER!!!
I don’t give a fuck what you think.
All of that said, I will wear this dress until it falls apart. I wear every single garment I’ve ever made, even the fails. I took my time and effort to make something out of a flat sheet of fabric, and that’s damn impressive. I am proud of each project, truly. If you don’t like what I make or feel I could have made it better, you don’t have to look at it. That’s how it works. I have found the online sewing community to be extremely warm and welcoming overall, I love talking to you all and seeing all the wonderful things you’ve made. I like discussing techniques and laughing at errors with you. But for the minority of you who just choose to be kind of shitty, might I suggest you fuck off?
I don’t what it is about fall that makes me want to make knit dresses. It seems most people make them in the summer, but…cozy knits are all about fall for me. This particular knit came from Joann’s and was purchased specifically for the Davie dress. The fabric has a good bit of stretch, but is still pretty solid and holds it’s shape well, which I thought would be perfect for this.
“Yeah, definitely take my picture in front of the bucket”
I decided early on to not do the top stitching here, because this fabric is textured and I wanted the focus to be on that. In hindsight, I think black top stitching would look pretty good on this one. Since I skipped that, I made this dress almost entirely with my serger. I really wish I had a cover stitch machine, I’d love to finish my hems and necklines that way! But alas, I don’t. So all openings were just turned and stitched. 🙁
I like fat hems and I cannot lie.
This pattern is crazy easy. No darts, no pleats, all princess seams. In honesty, I didn’t use the instructions. I cut view B in an 8, and just started sewing all the pieces together. I should have cut a 10, but since I was just serging and therefore having a smaller seam allowance, I sized down. The keyhole is very easy, again just fold and stitch. I’m not sure what Tasia suggests as far as hem size, but I like a large hem and I definitely had enough length to do it.
Don’t look at the hair, just don’t it.Blurry face and body, but not blurry dress? PERFECT.
Also I added the Saltspring again. I tend to add them where there are already notches on the pattern, because it’s just easy. On this dress, I think it added too much bulk to the hips. I wish I had done them lower or maybe in a different, less bulky fabric. Also this dress is probably a bit looser than it should be, but I liked that it didn’t cling to my stomach, so I didn’t take it in. I’m happy with the fit, and it’s seriously comfortable. Secret pajamas in the best way! I can’t think of much more to say on this one, it’s such a simple make! I hope you like it. Happy sewing 🙂
I’m told I don’t look like a ham here. I’m not buyin’ it.
A few weeks ago, the lovely people at Minerva Crafts sent me a few yards of this lovely polka dot chambray. While chambray screams “make a Granville” to me, I wanted to do a dress. Probably because I always want to make a dress. I’d been wanting to make a Kim dress for awhile, so there you have it. Chambray Kim dress. In honesty, I was expecting the fabric to take MUCH longer to arrive (it took about a week or two), so I shamefully shelved it for a bit while I finished my other projects :/
“Hey, look how awkwardly I can stand. Pretty cool, I know”
For starters, this dress was an absolute dream to sew. The fabric cuts and sews beautifully. I whipped through the dress in a day and a half, and that’s including the time I spent unpicking (serged) things I’d sewn on upside down. Sadly, it’s just a given that I’ll sew something upside down, or backwards, or to the wrong side…I do it every time. It’s probably pathetic.
I like how this angle really shows the wrinkles from playing with puppies.
I really, really like the bodice on this pattern. I cut a straight US 10 of version 2, and the bodice fits me pretty well, though I did take in a bit. I could probably stand to shorten the straps a bit, but I’m not complaining. The bodice has princess seams, so no darts. It’s also fully lined, which I always love. I tried to follow the bodice instructions completely, and I’m glad I did. It’s an interesting way to do things (at least to a novice like myself), but the finish is really clean and the assembly is easy. That said, it’s hard to know how it’s going to fit until it’s finished. If you’re concerned about fit, definitely do a muslin! I’m terrible about making muslins. I almost never do it and that’s because I’m both very busy and very lazy. It helps that I have a fairly standard “hourglass” figure, so my fit issues are typically minimal for sleeveless dresses. Pants and jackets are another story entirely!
Bodice/boob details.
For the skirt, I also cut a US 10, this time of version 1. The versions are easily interchangeable, so mix it up! I personally always prefer a sweetheart neckline to a scoop. The petal skirt is what originally attracted me to this pattern, and it didn’t disappoint. There are four simple darts and a bit of pleating (pictured above), which I adore. More details about those woes in a future post! The pattern calls for basting the overlapping front portions together before attaching to the bodice, which I liked and seemed to work well. I do think next I would slim the skirt down a bit. I would for sure like something a bit more fitted. I also think I will do a stitch to hold the front pieces together. On photo day, it was pretty windy, I only narrowly avoiding a wardrobe mishap! Like always, I added some pockets, always pockets. My apologies for the wrinkly look, but there was a puppy to play with!
Okay and maybe I did a shitty job pressing the pockets. Hush.
On the back, I omitted the hook and eye. I know it looks better to have it, but I have giant man hands and they’re tiny and fiddly and I hate sewing them. It pains me. I’ve convinced myself that the zip on it’s own doesn’t look horrible, so whatever. Now that Kim is finished, I think it’s time to get more of this fabric and make that Granville! Happy sewing 🙂
OH! And I chopped my hair off!!! What up, mid life crisis?!?
