A Kit Dress (McCall’s 6885)

December 14, 2015 by Ashley ♥ 4 Comments

Posing gets even more awkward than this, I am so sorry.

I’ve been on a pretty serious destashing kick, so buying this Craftsy kit came as a bit of surprise to even me. That said…fabric and a pattern for $15? No way I was passing that up!

I don’t know why I insist on looking down

The pattern is McCall’s 6885, and the fabric is Robert Kaufman’s dotty chambray, and I’m a big fan. The model on the pattern packaging is wearing something truly heinous, but please don’t let that deter you.

Photo "credit" to McCall's. Yes, the hat pattern is included. — Photo “credit” to McCall’s. Yes, the hat pattern is included.

I really liked the look of view D, kind of like a oversized men’s shirt but wearing it as a dress look, so that’s what I went with. Based on the pattern size chart, I should have graded between a size 14 and a 16. Based on everything I know about myself, I cut a 12. I do not like my clothes that loose, but that’s just personal preference. I liked the way the 12 fits, but I would cut the sleeves a teensy bit bigger if I could do it again. Also the sides come up a bit high, but that’s just the pattern design. I would suggest wearing tights if you want to look classy. I give no fucks about that.

Trying to look cool but even Amy’s dog is judging me.

The construction is pretty simple, as far as anything with a collar goes. There are various methods for collar constructing, but I opted to just go with the pattern version. The button placket is way easier than I expected!! If that kind of thing scares you, have no fear. Mine is far from perfect, but that’s honestly just because I get in my own head and freak myself out. There are also plackets (tabs? I don’t know) on the sleeves, but those are even easier. There is no yoke in the back, unlike the previous shirt dress I made, seriously a no fuss dress.

Okay so maybe the back is bit snug. Whatever.

I did snap buttons on this one again, because I still haven’t replaced my buttonhole foot. Yes, you should definitely button/snap to the second button/snap. I like to have cleavage, so I don’t. Again, preference.

A little boobage never hurt anyone, probably.

I will for sure sew this pattern again, it’s easy and it would definitely fit into my wardrobe. I also really dig this fabric, I really want to make another dress with it and button down, at least. This is the second time I’ve sewn with chambray, and I would definitely say this is the higher quality fabric. It doesn’t wrinkle nearly as easily, though the skirt portion did wrinkle when I sat at my desk for a long period of time. All things considered, I really like this, I’ve actually worn it a few times since I made it! If the Crafty kits ever come back in stock, I’d suggest snatching one up. Happy sewing 🙂

Creative Sewing Challenge-a Refashion (The Margo Blouse)

November 23, 2015 by Ashley ♥ 6 Comments

Uncomfortable in front of the camera? Play with your hem.

When Melissa from Mahlica Designs contacted me about participating in Blue Dot Patterns creative sewing challenge, I immediately knew I wanted to do the Margo Blouse, but I had no idea what I would do with it. And then I won a free giant tshirt from my favorite local business.

I love the Drink Tavern. It’s like my Cheers. The owners, Doug and Mary, are two of the best people you’ll ever meet. The regular patrons there are like family to me. When I first moved here, these were the people who befriended me. It’s like home. Seriously. It rocks.

I made Doug pose with me at Friendsgiving.

I knew I wanted to use my Drink Tavern shirt, but the Margo pattern is for wovens, not knits. Also the pattern is already a bit more “flowy” than I’d normally wear (what can I say, I like tight clothes), so I sized all the way down to an extra small (according the pattern chart, I should have cut a medium). I also skipped the facings, due to lack of fabric. Given the opportunity, I would have used the facings. For the neckline, I turned and stitched the hem. For the sleeves, I just used the existing sleeve hems. I did a wavy hem on the bottom, because I liked it and it’s easy! I took about an inch out of the shoulders, which is pretty common for me and my stumpy shoulders. You may not have to. I also only used two buttons instead of three, since mine were huge. Looking at it, I could have crammed three.

I just serged the whole thing together, from cutting the fabric to sewing the buttons, the whole project took maybe two hours. Diane’s pattern instructions were very easy to follow, I had no problems assembling the pdf or following the pattern.

I blame the cold for this disgruntled face.

I really can’t think of anything else, this is such a simple and easy pattern! If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Now comes the part where I share some extra photos, as I’m out of commentary. Be sure to check out my fellow sewalong participants listed below, and happy sewing! 🙂

Mahlica Designs-check out those cutouts!
That’s Sew Amy-my sewing buddy and blog photographer
Life by Ky-now that’s a tripod
Shanni Loves-that pintuck, though
Bobbins on my mind-looking forward to this one!
Cindy Parrett-not our first sewalong together
Musings of a Seamstress-Sara is so adorable
That Black Chick-I don’t even have words, Michelle NAILED it. Wow. Stunning.

Cardigan Trials (McCall’s 6844)

November 2, 2015 by Ashley ♥ 0 Leave a Comment

It’s hard to look through all these smiling pictures from weeks ago, when I can’t muster a smile now. I lost a very dear friend, and one of the few people on the earth I’ve ever connected with, on Friday. I won’t go on and on about it, but forgive me if I’m a little morose, okay?

This is the McCall’s 6844 cardigan pattern, you’ve probably sewn it yourself. It’s been done by everyone, I think. I cut this particular version last year, before I had even started blogging. The fabric is a lovely sequined sweater knit from Joann’s, and unfortunately, they don’t seem to carry it anymore. 🙁 But yay for finishing projects!

Somewhere along the line, I managed to lose this pattern. So the garment you seen here is the product of cut pattern pieces and what I felt like should happen to them. I serged the bodice portion together, added the lower pieces, scarf-type pieces, and then sleeves. All just serged, no darts or gathers of any kind. I vaguely recall the pattern calling for interfacing, but this didn’t get any. I also have two extra scarf pieces that I did NOTHING with. We’re calling this one a wearable muslin, okay? And, just like before, I have no idea what size I cut.

Apparently, when I cut this fabric, I did so with reckless disregard for the strips on the fabric. For the most part, it actually came out pretty okay. In the photo above, you can see where it did not! Also, just like in my previous post, it’s a bit snug. When I make this again, I’ll grade up in the sleeves. Since this is just a muslin, and a knit, I didn’t finish the hem or the sleeves. I kinda dig the way it came out, though!!! Perfect for work, comfortable to wear around the house. Oh!! And check that tank underneath, recognize it? It’s the peplum top I made! I wear the hell out of this thing, definitely my most worn make!

This quick cardigan was definitely worth a make for me. And I get the deeply satisfying feeling of cleaning up old UFO’s in my sewing room! Win win. Pardon the short post, this is all the cheer I could manage. Happy sewing 🙂

The Nightmare Dress (Butterick 6089)

October 26, 2015October 26, 2015 by Ashley ♥ 4 Comments

Do you remember the Nightmare Coat? It was my very first post, so probably not. The nightmare coat earned it’s name based on that fucking headache-inducing fabric. The nightmare dress is made of something very similar, just thinner. It’s a thin wool houndstooth, from Joann’s sometime last year. It also has the same tendency to fray and drive me insane.

I had originally made this dress with a longer hem line and 3/4 sleeves, so that I could wear it work without a cardigan. When I say originally, I mean last Christmas, when I started this one (I’ve been on a serious finishing ufo’s kick). To be honest, it looked a kinda dowdy that way. A little Laura Ingalls Wilder, ya know? To top it off, the fabric seemed to fray every time I looked at it, even though I’d stitched and serged everything? I need some tips on dealing with this tricky fabric!

Forward to a few weeks ago, when I decided to dust it off (literally) and fix it. I chopped the sleeves off and raised the hem above the knee, then just turned under and hemmed. In honesty, I have no idea where the pattern is or what size I cut. I do remember assembling the bodice and skirt per the pattern instructions. Last winter I was a good bit thinner than I am now, and it shows in this dress. Check out the pleats in the picture below to see what I’m talking about.

I kinda like this dress as is, I just would make it a bit looser, fix the arm scythe, and use a different fabric. I love the red and black, it gives it a sort of 90’s punk rock look, which I am all about. But this fabric…ugh. Never again. NEVER!!!

I don't give a fuck what you think. — I don’t give a fuck what you think.

All of that said, I will wear this dress until it falls apart. I wear every single garment I’ve ever made, even the fails. I took my time and effort to make something out of a flat sheet of fabric, and that’s damn impressive. I am proud of each project, truly. If you don’t like what I make or feel I could have made it better, you don’t have to look at it. That’s how it works. I have found the online sewing community to be extremely warm and welcoming overall, I love talking to you all and seeing all the wonderful things you’ve made. I like discussing techniques and laughing at errors with you. But for the minority of you who just choose to be kind of shitty, might I suggest you fuck off?

Sewaholic Davie Dress (Sewaholic 1503)

October 9, 2015 by Ashley ♥ 2 Comments

I can't explain why I look 11. — I can’t explain why I look 11.

I don’t what it is about fall that makes me want to make knit dresses. It seems most people make them in the summer, but…cozy knits are all about fall for me. This particular knit came from Joann’s and was purchased specifically for the Davie dress. The fabric has a good bit of stretch, but is still pretty solid and holds it’s shape well, which I thought would be perfect for this.

"Yeah, definitely take my picture in front of the bucket" — “Yeah, definitely take my picture in front of the bucket”

I decided early on to not do the top stitching here, because this fabric is textured and I wanted the focus to be on that. In hindsight, I think black top stitching would look pretty good on this one. Since I skipped that, I made this dress almost entirely with my serger. I really wish I had a cover stitch machine, I’d love to finish my hems and necklines that way! But alas, I don’t. So all openings were just turned and stitched. 🙁

This pattern is crazy easy. No darts, no pleats, all princess seams. In honesty, I didn’t use the instructions. I cut view B in an 8, and just started sewing all the pieces together. I should have cut a 10, but since I was just serging and therefore having a smaller seam allowance, I sized down. The keyhole is very easy, again just fold and stitch. I’m not sure what Tasia suggests as far as hem size, but I like a large hem and I definitely had enough length to do it.

Don't look at the hair, just don't it. — Don’t look at the hair, just don’t it.

Blurry face and body, but not blurry dress? PERFECT.

Also I added the Saltspring again. I tend to add them where there are already notches on the pattern, because it’s just easy. On this dress, I think it added too much bulk to the hips. I wish I had done them lower or maybe in a different, less bulky fabric. Also this dress is probably a bit looser than it should be, but I liked that it didn’t cling to my stomach, so I didn’t take it in. I’m happy with the fit, and it’s seriously comfortable. Secret pajamas in the best way! I can’t think of much more to say on this one, it’s such a simple make! I hope you like it. Happy sewing 🙂

By Hand London Kim Dress

October 2, 2015April 11, 2016 by Ashley ♥ 2 Comments

I'm told I don't look like a ham here. I'm not buyin' it. — I’m told I don’t look like a ham here. I’m not buyin’ it.

A few weeks ago, the lovely people at Minerva Crafts sent me a few yards of this lovely polka dot chambray. While chambray screams “make a Granville” to me, I wanted to do a dress. Probably because I always want to make a dress. I’d been wanting to make a Kim dress for awhile, so there you have it. Chambray Kim dress. In honesty, I was expecting the fabric to take MUCH longer to arrive (it took about a week or two), so I shamefully shelved it for a bit while I finished my other projects :/

"Hey, look how awkwardly I can stand. Pretty cool, I know" — “Hey, look how awkwardly I can stand. Pretty cool, I know”

For starters, this dress was an absolute dream to sew. The fabric cuts and sews beautifully. I whipped through the dress in a day and a half, and that’s including the time I spent unpicking (serged) things I’d sewn on upside down. Sadly, it’s just a given that I’ll sew something upside down, or backwards, or to the wrong side…I do it every time. It’s probably pathetic.

I like how this angle really shows the wrinkles from playing with puppies.

I really, really like the bodice on this pattern. I cut a straight US 10 of version 2, and the bodice fits me pretty well, though I did take in a bit. I could probably stand to shorten the straps a bit, but I’m not complaining. The bodice has princess seams, so no darts. It’s also fully lined, which I always love. I tried to follow the bodice instructions completely, and I’m glad I did. It’s an interesting way to do things (at least to a novice like myself), but the finish is really clean and the assembly is easy. That said, it’s hard to know how it’s going to fit until it’s finished. If you’re concerned about fit, definitely do a muslin! I’m terrible about making muslins. I almost never do it and that’s because I’m both very busy and very lazy. It helps that I have a fairly standard “hourglass” figure, so my fit issues are typically minimal for sleeveless dresses. Pants and jackets are another story entirely!

For the skirt, I also cut a US 10, this time of version 1. The versions are easily interchangeable, so mix it up! I personally always prefer a sweetheart neckline to a scoop. The petal skirt is what originally attracted me to this pattern, and it didn’t disappoint. There are four simple darts and a bit of pleating (pictured above), which I adore. More details about those woes in a future post! The pattern calls for basting the overlapping front portions together before attaching to the bodice, which I liked and seemed to work well. I do think next I would slim the skirt down a bit. I would for sure like something a bit more fitted. I also think I will do a stitch to hold the front pieces together. On photo day, it was pretty windy, I only narrowly avoiding a wardrobe mishap! Like always, I added some pockets, always pockets. My apologies for the wrinkly look, but there was a puppy to play with!

Okay and maybe I did a shitty job pressing the pockets. Hush.

On the back, I omitted the hook and eye. I know it looks better to have it, but I have giant man hands and they’re tiny and fiddly and I hate sewing them. It pains me. I’ve convinced myself that the zip on it’s own doesn’t look horrible, so whatever. Now that Kim is finished, I think it’s time to get more of this fabric and make that Granville! Happy sewing 🙂

OH! And I chopped my hair off!!! What up, mid life crisis?!?

Fabulous Fall (McCall’s 6754)

September 17, 2015September 17, 2015 by Ashley ♥ 9 Comments

I really can't make any more posing excusing. — I really can’t make any more posing excusing.

McCall’s 6754 is my go to pattern. I think I’ve made it at least 7 times. This is a knit pattern, but I’ve made it in everything from quilting cotton to some weird poly-crepe type fabric. I’ve made it sleeveless and raglan. I’ve added pockets, zippers. I added horsehair braid once. It’s such an easy pattern, and who doesn’t love a good circle skirt!?!

I purchased this fabric last year (yay for destashing!), and have been struggling on what to do with it. I love that it’s reversible, but couldn’t think of a way to showcase that. Finally, I decided fuck it. The fabric is soft and cozy and perfect for a fall dress. Wearing this dress feels like being wrapped in the softest blanket, it takes “secret pajamas” to another level.

I like that dress, but it would look better on my floor.

The very best part of this dress is that it was sewn up after work on Tuesday. Fabric cutting included, it took about 3 hours. It’s crazy fast and easy. I do, however, wonder about darts on the raglan sleeves. It’s a knit, why have a dart on the sleeve? Any ideas? Other than the darts and finishing, I did all the sewing on my serger. Originally, I had intended to do bands at the sleeves and hem, in the stripes also, but I ran out of energy. The pattern doesn’t call for bands, just fold and stitch, but I really like the look and stability of it. I would suggest sizing down. This fabric tends to “grow” as you wear it, so I think could have even gone down one more size! It is very easy to edit along the way, so if you cut it a bit too large, no worries. I’ve sewn this so many times, I disregarded the instructions. I believe it calls for elastic at the waist in all versions, though. I don’t add it. I don’t think it needs it and I just don’t like the look. But if you do, go for it! It’s an easy add.

Aaaaaaaaaaaand I'm dizzy. — Aaaaaaaaaaaand I’m dizzy.

This is my last make for the Sew Long Summer Sew Along!! I hope you’ve all enjoyed it. Happy sewing 🙂

Holidaze (Colette Crepe/Colette 1013)

September 10, 2015 by Ashley ♥ 8 Comments

So here’s the thing…I really need to cut my bangs. I thought I would grow them out, but I won’t. Please look past the bangs. Also, I was very fidgety for these photos, so excuse the blur, okay? I’m tryin’ here, photos are not my favorite.

This is the Colette Crepe, and my Holidaze post for the Sew Long Summer Sew Along. I know the fabric is floral, but to me it looks like fireworks. Labor Day holiday + firework print=Holidaze, yes? This fabric was purchased at Joann’s 283238473 years ago, from the clearance section. It’s cotton, but lighter and more sheer than cotton lawn. Mystery fabric.

I can't deal with my own face right now. — I can’t deal with my own face right now.

While the pattern calls for facings, I opted to fully line it instead. I fucking hate facings. Facings are the worst. Plus, this fabric is practically translucent, so a full lining was really the only option. While this definitely makes for a better dress, it does take a lot of fabric. I’m guessing between 7-8 yards, maybe. I ran out. The filler pieces on the lining are black quilting cotton.

I’ve got a very Amelia Pond-esque crack in my wall.

To line it, I just cut double the amount of each piece, except the tie straps, obviously. The shoulders and sides of the bodice and lining were sewn together. I stitched lining and bodice together at the back and neckline, with the straps sandwiched between the two. For the arms, i just serged and folded the seams under. I sandwiched (word of the day?) the bodice inbetween the skirt and skirt lining, to get a nice clean finish at the waist. Make sense? Probably not, that’s a terrible explanation. I hope you get the idea! Other than the lining, I followed the instructions.

I cut a size 8 of version two, because I love a fancy neckline. I have to say, the neckline is a little high for me, I am not exactly known for dressing conservatively. I liked the fit, and of course a wrap dress gives you some wiggle room. I will probably end up cutting some length off, it’s just not flattering on someone of my height and proportions. I think slightly above the knee would be more flattering. This was so easy to sew!! If you know anyone who’s interested in learning to sew, this would be a fantastic starter pattern. I’m even going to attempt to make another version, in a Doctor Who print, in one evening. Wish me luck! Happy sewing 🙂

Never Ending Summer (McCall’s 6696)

September 2, 2015December 21, 2015 by Ashley ♥ 2 Comments

We’re in week two! I’ve changed my mind a few times on some of my projects for this sewalong, but this week was always going to be the McCall’s shirtdress. I’ve read about it on so many blogs, so many people are in love with it…and I just feel “enh” about it.

I’m trying to copy that shrugging guy people are always typing.

I had always intended to make this dress in this fabric. I love this print, but the colors just aren’t really me. But hey, shirt dress, seems appropriate, yes? That bit turned out well, at least. I should have given more thought to doing stripe matching with pleats on the bottom and darts on the top. Whoops. On the cutting table, I realized that I’d have to do view C, the more fitted skirt. Not my favorite look, but the darts (and print) lined up perfectly. Worth it. When it comes to the back…stripe matching with pleats and gathers, not so much. And that yoke…I don’t know what happened there. But…rtw clothes have terrible print matching, right? It’s totally not even that noticeable?? Right? RIGHT!?!?

While we’re talking about gathers…I feel like this dress needs more. In hindsight, I do remember another sewing blogger saying that she added more to her version. Look, I know what you’re thinking here. “But Ashley, didn’t you make a muslin??” No, no I did not. This fabric was purchased about two years ago (yay for de-stashing), for about $4 a yard. With fashion fabric that cheap, this basically is the wearable muslin.

Another fun thing was when I managed to lose my buttonhole foot before making a shirt dress. Real smooth. Luckily enough, I had just purchased some crazy cheap pearl snaps. Being honest…the first few snaps didn’t come out so great. After a few and some wine, I’m pretty proud of my work. The neighbors probably didn’t enjoy the 9pm hammering, though.

For the collar, I followed Grainline’s collar sewing method. Easy peasy. With the yoke, I used the burrito method, my favorite yoke sewing method. I’m tellin ya, you’ve never seen a more beautifully finished yoke. Burrito method, almost impossible to fuck up but looks so professional. The rest of the sewing is fairly straightforward. I cut a 10, but really should have done a 12. It’s a bit too snug for my liking, but I’d also like to lose this 10 pounds I found somewhere, so…yeah. I used self made bias tape on the arms, and also did a small dart on each, to get them to lay a bit flatter.

I also somehow lost the pocket pattern pieces, so mine are self drafted. I totally intended to get pictures of said pockets and details, up close. I forgot, again. I am the worst at details and I apologize. I promise to improve, eventually. All and all, I like this pattern. I will for sure be making an improved version of this soon. Happy sewing! 🙂

Summer Crush (Sewaholic Lonsdale/Sewaholic 1102)

August 28, 2015August 28, 2015 by Ashley ♥ 11 Comments

I hope you’re all enjoying the Sew Long Summer sewalong!! I know I’ve been having a blast with it. All summer long, I’ve been crushing on and dreaming about this Cotton & Steel fabric. Originally, I had intended to sew up a Burda sunsuit with it, but I’m just not convinced I’ll ever wear it. Enter the Sewaholic Lonsdale dress, which just kinda screamed summer to me.

If you’ve never sewn an indie pattern, I highly suggest you do. The instructions are so much clearer, and fitting issues are minimal. Tasia also has a VERY easy to follow step by step sewalong posted online, so if the instructions ever do trip you up, shes got your back! You can’t go wrong, I’m tellin’ ya.

For this dress, I cut a straight 12, and it’s a pretty good fit. I could stand to take the bodice in a bit, but I fear that would make it too tight. The fabric is a cotton lawn, so there’s absolutely no stretch here. I will warn you, the Lonsdale is a fabric hog. I used a full 4 yards on this one, and that’s with some creative pattern placement. Those cute tie straps connect to the bodice, and they are LONG. Also, the bodice is fully lined, so you need 4 of those suckers. It’s part of what makes the dress so lovely, just make sure you plan for it! A non-sewing related qualm, it’s either a strapless bra or no bra for this one. I hate a strapless bra with a passion usually reserved for telemarketers, so…I felt you deserved a warning.

To sing Tasia’s praises one more time, she understands not wanting to hand stitch. Hand stitching is the worst. It takes forever. My man-sized hands are not made for it. DOWN WITH HAND STITCHING. For the waistband, you have the option of hand sewing it to the skirt, or stitching it “in the ditch”. I, of course, opted to stitch in the ditch, and it looks just fine. It’s also worth noting, this entire dress was sewn with grey thread. The base of this fabric is kind of an odd green color, and I just didn’t have a color to match. Grey thread is a bit magical, it just somehow manages to blend in with everything. It’s a beautiful thing.